J. Cosmet. Sci., 71, 1–10 (January/February 2020) 1 Improved Stability of Butterfl y Pea Anthocyanins with Biopolymeric Walls NATTAYA LOURITH and MAYUREE KANLAYAVATTANAKUL , School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand (N.L., M.K.), Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand (N.L., M.K.) Accepted for publication October 1, 2019. Synopsis Butterfl y pea (Clitoria ternatea) anthocyanins are important natural food colorants. However, the instability hinders industrial applications. The butterfl y pea anthocyanin extract was prepared and mixed with biopolymeric wall systems such as maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum at 1/4 and 1/5 ratios with or without acidifi ed condition, and assessed using the accelerated stability test. The total anthocyanin content (TAC) and color were reassessed. The biopolymeric walls of MD and GA (1/5) under acidifi ed condition exhibited best stability enhancement in comparison with the unprotected one (12.04% ± 4.49% and 85.37% ± 0.22% TAC reduction, respectively). a* and h shifts of the protected system were 4.76% ± 0.00% and 0.28% ± 0.00%, respectively. The particle size of this system was 95.44 ± 1.57 μm. This stabilized anthocyanin extract can, therefore, be used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. INTRO D UCTION Butte rfl y pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) has long been used as a traditional medicine (1) because of its pharmacologically active constituents, of which anthocyanins are the key molecules (2) contributing to their therapeutic effects (3) as per their utilization as a natural addi- tive in food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics (4). Anthocyanins are highly reactive and easily degraded following air, light, high temperature, and humidity exposures, which diminish their application in health promotion products. Accordingly, stabilization of anthocyanins is the main focus of several researchers using these versatile biological mol- ecules in health promotion products (5), which protects the anthocyanins against adverse environmental conditions that downregulate the stability by means of encapsulation in polymeric wall materials. This is regarded as a feasible solution (6) and fi t with the indus- trial aspects. Address all correspondence to Nattaya Lourith at nattayal@mfu.ac.th.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 2 Biopo lymers are one of the important macromolecules with a variety of health-benefi cial effects, including cosmetic benefi ts (7,8), in addition to their suitability to be used as a protecting wall system for the protection of anthocyanins (9). Most of the studies are devoted for loading and encapsulation effi cacies as well as releasing profi les (10). Malto- dextrin (MD) is commonly used as the main biopolymeric material because of its high water solubility, low viscosity, and the characteristic to afford a colorless media that inter- fere less with the color of anthocyanins (11). In addition, a combination system of MD and gum Arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum (GG) in 3/1 ratio had been shown to be the optimized mixture of biopolymeric wall system for blackberry (12) and barberry anthocyanin protection (6). Nevertheless, stability enhancement of butterfl y pea anthocyanin (BP) extract is less explored, especially with the biopolymeric wall encapsulation. The o bjective of this study was to enhance the stability of BP extract by encapsulation in three different biopolymeric wall systems: MD and GA, MD and GE, and MD and GG (3/1) in a ratio between extract and walls of 1/4 and 1/5 with or without acidifi ed conditions. Total anthocyanins content and color parameters of each protecting condition at the base- line and following accelerated stability test was examined. The improved stability of BP extract presented herein would be, therefore, available for a variety applications in the health-benefi cial anthocyanins with the retention of quality feasible for the industrial practices, especially for the products in the powder dosage form, e.g., makeup cosmetics. In addition, application of this stable form of natural colorant would meet the consumers’ awareness and preference on natural cosmetics. MATER IALS AND METHODS Butte rfl y pea was purchased from the chained supermarket (Makro, Chiang Rai). MD, GA, GE, and GG were food grades. Other chemicals and solvents used in this study were of analytical grades unless otherwise stated. BP EX TRACTION BP ex tract was prepared by the modifi ed method from the literature (6). In short, the coarse-ground petals of butterfl y pea were macerated in a mixture of water (30 ml) and 95% ethanol (70 ml) and shaken for 1 h (150 rpm, 50°C). The mixture was fi ltrated and concentrated to 15° brix (Hand-Held refractometer N-1E Brix 0–32%, ATAGO, Tokyo, Japan) by a rotary evaporator (Eyela, Tokyo, Japan) and the sample was stored in a light- and air-tight container at -4°C. Another batch of extraction was carried out using the same procedure, but the fi ltrated extract was lyophilized for total anthocyanin content (TAC) and stability assessments in a comparison with those stabilized in the biopolymeric walls. BIOPOLYME RIC WALL PREPARATION The polym eric walls were prepared by the modifi ed method from the literatures (12,13). Briefl y, the mixture of biopolymeric walls, which were MD and GA, MD and GE, and
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