SKIN CONDITION MEASURED BY SONIC VELOCITY 17 treatment and the final visual grade are not significantly different in their ability to predict consumer reaction. Together they predict 20% of the variance in the data concerning the panelists' product impression. Finally, further investigations should be undertaken to relate sonic and visual measures with consumer data, as it is hypothesized that the large unexplained variance in the panelists' responses could be reduced if random noise was suppressed by designing better questions and giving the panelists standards against which to mark the scales. CONCLUSIONS Changes in skin condition resulting from treatment with skin care products are measurable by sonic velocity changes and also by visual grading methods. The changes induced by products result in a decrease of approximately 15% of the total measured sonic velocity. These changes can be explained as resulting from product-induced changes in the elastic modulus of the outermost layers of the stratum corneum. The Dynamic Modulus Tester method provides reproducible and sensitive measurements, often showing statistical significance with relatively small differences. It has demon- strated an ability to rank products earlier than visual grading methods. The sonic velocity/elasticity method may easily be applied to skin condition evaluation in a clinical setting and is implemented simply from inexpensive, readily available instrumentation. In clinical tests, both chronic and acute product exposures result in measured velocity changes. Also, the dynamic development of skin elasticity after acute exposure may be monitored. Further, objective measures of elasticity are obtained which are intercomparable between studies conducted with different princi- pal investigators. It must be recognized in this regard, however, that age and body site both influence the absolute measured values, although calculated elasticity changes are independent of age. The value of sonic velocity measures in clinical testing rests on the observations that effects among products are noted earlier than with visual grading, and the correlation between visual grades and sonic velocity-derived elasticities are low and thus the measures describe different skin condition attributes. Moreover, the origin of the sonic velocity changes may be attributed to a physically meaningful property of the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Elasticity changes induced by products cannot be observed visually, although that is not to say the consumer does not experience this change through other sensory mechanisms. However, these changes in elasticity, for the products tested, foreshadow improvements in skin appearance (manifested as a decrease in visual dry skin pathology) over a much longer time scale. In fact, they may signal changes in the biological processes within the tissues which, over time, lead to elimination of the perception of dry skin. The power of the sonic velocity technique is that it quickly and simply measures a new dimension of skin not amenable to visual investigation, yet appears to be predictive of the eventual visual condition and consumer perception. REFERENCES (1) H. Tronnier, Der hydratationszustand der haut,J. Soc. Cosmet., Chem., 32, 175-192 (1981). (2) D.C. Salter, The form of the alternating current electrical properties of human skin measured in vivo, preprint.
18 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (3) D.C. Salter, "Quantifying skin disease and healing in vivo using electrical impedance measurements," in Non-Invasive Physiological Measurements, P. Rolfe, ed., (Academic Press, New York, 1979), Vol. I, pp 21-64. (4) T. Yamamoto and Y. Yamamoto, Analysis for the change of skin impedance, Med. & BioL Eng. & Cornput., 15,219-227 (1977). (5) T. Yamamoto and Y. Yamamoto, Dielectric constant and resistivity of epidermal stratum corneum, Med & Bid. Eng., 494-500 (1976). (6) T. Yamamoto and Y. Yamamoto, Electrical properties of the epidermal stratum corneum, Med. & Biol Eng., 151-158 (1976). (7) R. Edelberg, Relation of electrical properties of skin to structure and physiologic state, J. Inves. Dermatol., 69, 324-327 (1977). (8) E.J. Clar, C. P. Her, and C. G. Sturelle, Skin impedance and moisturization, Cosmetics & Toiletties, 92, 73-75 (1977). (9) E.J. Clar, C. P. Her, and C. G. Sturelle, Skin impedance and moisturization,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 26, 337-353 (1975). (10) H. Baker and A.M. Kligman, Technique for estimating turnover time of human stratum corneum, Arch. Derm., 95,408-411 (1967). (11) H. Baker and A.M. Kligman, Measurement of transepidermal water loss by electrical hygrometry. Instrumentation and responses to physical and chemical insults, Arch. Derre., 96, 441-452 (1967). (12) D. H. Spruit and K. E. Malten, Epidermal water-barrier formation after stripping of normal skin, J. Inves. DermatoL, 45, 6-14 (1965). (13) U. Hoppe, The topology of the skin, Cosmet. Tech., 33-38 (March 1981). (14) U. Hoppe, The topology of the skin, Cosmet. Tech., 55-59 (February 1981). (15) R. L. Anderson, J. M. Cassidy, J. R. Hansen and W. Yellin, Hydration of stratum corneum, Biopolymers, 12, 2789-2802 (1973). (16) A.J. Milligan and P. T. Pugliese, In vivo ellipsometric measurement of the skin--refractive index, Cosmet. Tech., 22-27 (October 1980). (17) A. Riechstoffe, Juvena research discovers a new cosmetic hormone, Kosmetica, 29, 281-282 (1979). (18) R. Grahame, Elasticity of human skin in vivo. A study of the physical properties of the skin in rheumatoid arthritis and the effects of croticosteroids, Presented at the annual meeting of the British Association of Physical Medicine and Rheumatology, March, 1969. (19) R. T. Tregear, Physical Functions of Skin, (Academic Press, London, 1966), Vol. 5. (20) H. M. Morgan Company, Norwood, Mass. (21) R. H. Wildnauer, A physiochemical approach to the characterization of stratum corneum, Adv. Chem. Series (Applied Chemistry of Protein Interfaces), 145, 74-124 (1975). (22) R. O. Potts and M. M. Breuer, The mechanical spectrum of skin, I. The experimental technique and measurements at room temperature,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 339-353 (1981). (23) R. M. Kenedi, T. Gibson, J. H. Evans, and J. C. Barbenel, Tissue mechanics, Phys. Med. Biol., 20, 669-717 (1975). (24) G. L. Wilkes, I. A. Brown, and R. H. Wildnauer, "The biomechanical properties of skin," in CRC Critical Reviews in Bioengineering, (The CRC Press, Cleveland, 1973), pp 453-495. (25) J. B. Finlay, Thixotropy in human skin,J. Biomechanic., 11,333-342 (1978). (26) J. C. Barbenel, J. H. Evans and J. B. Finlay, "Stress-strain relations of soft connective tissues," in Perspectives in Biomedical Engineering, R. M. Kenedi, ed. (University Park Press, Baltimore, 1972), p 165. (27) J. B. Finlay, The torsional characteristics of human skin, Bio.-Med. Eng., 6, 567-573 (1971). (28) P. F. F. Wijn, A.J.M. Brakkee,J. P. Kuiper, and A.J.H. Vendrik, The alinear viscoelastic properties of human skin in vivo related to sex and age, Bioeng. Skin, 2 ( 1 ), 16-18 (1979). (29) P. F. F. Wijn, A.J.M. Brakkee, and A.J.H. Vendrick, The alinear visco elastic properties of the human skin in vivo for small deformation, Bioeng. Skin, 1 (3), 28-30 (1979). (30) W. Montagna, The Structure and Function of Skin, (Academic Press, London, 1962), p 8. (31) Product Bulletin PM3-8, The H. M. Morgan Company, Norwood, Mass. (32) I. H. Blank, Factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum,J. Inves. Dermatol., 18, 433-440 (1952). (33) G. P. Serban, S. M. Henry, V. F. Cotty, and A.D. Marcus, In vivo evaluation of skin lotions by electrical capacitance: II. Evaluation of moisturized skin using an improved dry electrode, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 421-435 (1981). (34) D. A. Weigand, C. Haygood, andJ. R. Gaylor, Cell layers and density of negro and caucasian stratum corneum,J. Inves. DermatoL, 62, 563-586 (1974).
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