j. Cosmet. Sci., 49, 185-212 (May/June 1998) Preprints of the 1998 Annual Scientific Seminar May 7-8, 1998 Westin Hotel Seattle, WA 185

186 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE COMPARISON OF FACIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF JAPANESE AND CAUCASIAN SKIN Amy C. Zimmerman, Albert M Kligman, M.D., Ph.D., Ronald L. Rizer, Ph. D, John V. Scimeca, James R. Mayne Amway Corporation, Ada, M149355 INTRODUCTION Traditional safety studies used to develop products have not been predictive of adverse results in the field, due to differences between Japanese and Caucasian skin. The difference between these two populations is centered around the fact that both Japanese dermatologists and the Japanese people perceive their skin to be sensitive. The Japanese population has exhibited more neuro-sensory reactions such as itching, burning and stinging as compared to Caucasian populations. Ordinary safety and use testing does not forecast these differences. The development of products for a global marketplace requires understanding of these differences. If cosmetic scientists are to be successful in formulating efficacious products for the Japanese market, we must first examine the skin characteristics of their populations and their reaction to topical preparations. The challenge for our industry is to determine how to predict and forecast potential problems. MARKETING EXPER•NCE High on the list of consumer complaints in the Japanese market are burning, itching and stinging, especially on the face. Both raw materials used and formulation types have been identified as contributors to these irritation reactions. Problematic Ingredients Problematic Formulation Types Alcohol Highly Occlusive Creams Preservative Systems Some Leave-On Products Fragrances Masks Low Molecular Weight Esters Eye Area Products Organic Sunscreens Another area to consider when marketing products to the Japanese is the fact that there are real cultural differences between the two populations. One area is in preference of product types. The Japanese prefer light products which go on smoothly and which leave little or no residue. Heavy, greasy or oily products are not well received. A second cultural difference is that the Japanese population is typically less concerned with facial wrinkles and lines. A much stronger focus is placed on the clarity, tone and texture of their skin. Minor changes in skin color or mottling of the skin are perceived as a very big problem.