j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem,, 36, 375-380 (September/October 1985) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publication Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.-- The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists ANNUAL MEETING December 5-6, 1985 The Waldorf-Astoria, New York Program arranged by the Society's Committee on Scientific Affairs Jan Curry, Chairman, 1985 SESSION I FRAGRANCE TECHNOLOGY MAECIS: A computer program for the handling and analysis of flavor and fragrance molecules Craig B. Warren Ph.D., William E. Brugger Ph.D., and Gary Zander, IFF, 1515 Highway 36, Union Beach, NJ 07735 Chemical structure and information-handling present problems for flavor and fragrance companies because of the large number and structural diversity of molecules used by this industry for their product lines. This problem is compounded by the use of industry-specific, trivial names that contain no struc- tural information. Examples are galaxolide and ce- lestolide, names of two common, musk-like odor- ants. Our solution to this particular information- handling problem was the development of MAECIS, a user-friendly, interactive program written in FORTRAN for the DEC VAX 11-780 computer. Applications of multivariate data analysis to fra- grance material quality control D. L. Carroll, Ph.D., Colgate-Palmolive Co., 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Published gas chromatography data collected on lavender and lavandin oils have been analyzed by multivariate statistical methods. It will be shown that several techniques, including principal com- ponents, k-nearest neighbor, cluster, SIMCA, and discriminant analysis, can effect a machine classi- fication of lavender from lavandin oils. The lavandin oils may be further classified as to Abrialis, Grosso, and Super hybrids. Application of these methods to several other materials of flavor fragrance interest will be discussed. Segmenting fragrance preferences Howard R. Moskowitz, Moskowitz/Jacobs, Inc., 14 Madison Avenue, Valhalla, New York 10595 Consumer tests with both fine and functional fra- grances reveal large differences among consumers in degree of liking, but substantial agreement in terms of sensory properties. Rather than considering the variability of preferences as an unavoidable "fact of life," it turns out that there are different segments of consumers in the population, showing well de- fined, homogeneous preferences. This paper shows how to uncover those segments, and find out what sensory characteristics consumers in each segment prefer. The paper also deals with the relation be- tween sensory attribute level and acceptance for each segment (sensitivity and analysis), and the simul- taneous scientific/commercial opportunities which present themselves upon discovering and isolating new consumer preference segments for fragrance. 375

376 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Human odors and their effects on the menstrual cycle George Preti and Winnifred B. Cutler, Monell Chemical Senses Center, 3500 Market Street, Phil- adelphia, PA 19104, and Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology, School of Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA 19104 The possibility that human odors affect our repro- ductive biology has been discussed at some length in both the scientific and popular press however, much of this discussion has centered on the possible existence of releaser pheromones or "sex attractant"- type effects. Our studies examined the thesis that human odors act in a primer pheromone fashion and alter the endocrinology of the menstrual cycle. Pre- vious studies have shown that (a) menstrual cycle lengths of 29.5 + 3 days ("normal cycles") are more frequent in women who have weekly coital activity than in women who do not and (b) women who spend time together are likely to show synchrony in the onset of their menstrual bleeding. To deter- mine whether chemical substances from the axillae are involved in these phenomena, the menstrual cycle length of nulliparous women was evaluated following regular application of extract from either donor males or femal'es. Female subjects who re- ported having a history of aberrant length cycles (26 days and 33 days) received extract from male donors, while those subjects who reported having normal cycle lengths received extract from female donors. Women receiving the male extracts for 13.5 + 1 weeks experienced more regular cycles com- pared to controls receiving only placebo applications in addition, subjects receiving female extracts showed a significant shift towards menstrual syn- chrony with the donor females. These studies dem- onstrate that axillary constituents can shift the length and onset of the direct social contact. Both male and female extracts have also been examined by gas constituents. Secretions of both male and females contain a number of steroid constituents including the volatile steroids androstenone and an- drostenol. The concentrations of these components is being determined to see if there is menstrual or seasonal variation in female or male samples, re- spectively. CONCURRENT SESSION ARRANGED BY CTFA MICROBIOLOGY COMMITTEE Report of a cosmetic industry survey con- cerning correlation of preservative challenge and consumer use test results Ronald J. Spielmaker, Amway Corporation, 7575 East Fulton Rd., Ada, MI 49355 Results are presented of a cosmetic industry survey generated by the CTFA Microbiology Committee and distributed by CTFA. The survey requested in- formation concerning •orrelation of preservative challenge and consumer use test results. The survey dealt with three product areas: water-based mas- caras solvent-based mascaras and creams/lotions. Validation of the microbiological integrity of cosmetic products through consumer use testing Susan M. Lindstrom, and Patricia Imig Bowman, Ph.D., Avon Products, Inc., Division St., Suffern, NY 10901 To ensure the development of microbiologically safe cosmetics, Avon Products, Inc. has developed an in vitro microbial challenge test which accurately pre- dicts the preservative efficacy of a product after long-term consumer use. Over the past five years, 186 products which had met the in vitro challenge test criteria, were subjected to consumer testing. These products included mascaras, creams, lotions, liquid makeup, eyeshadows, eyeliners, and batch and hair preparations. Criteria for formula accept- ability after use included: no recovery of Pseudomonas sp., E. coli, or S. aureus, and recovery of 100 cfu/ g followed by no recovery of organisms upon a retest of the product. Over 99% of the products met these requirements. Only five out of approximately 4000 samples tested did not meet these test criteria, and were reformulated with increased preservative con- centrations before release for sale. As a result of the failures, our in vitro challenge test was made more stringent by including a higher concentration of challenge organisms, a greater number of preser- vative-resistant product isolates, and more stringent inoculum reduction requirements. These procedures have resulted in an in vitro test which accurately predicts preservative efficacy of a cosmetic product after consumer use. Correlation of in vitro challenge testing with in- use consumer testing for cosmetic products D. K. Brannan, J. C. Dille, and D. J. Kaufman, Procter & Gamble Co., 1 Procter & Gamble Plaza, Cincinnati, OH 45202 The cosmetic and drug industries use microbial challenge testing as an indicator of a product's ability to withstand microbial insults. The ability of a cosmetic product to withstand microbial insults experienced during consumer use is of particular interest to the regulatory agencies. The FDA, for example, has issued a contract to develop an in vitro test method that predicts whether or not a cosmetic will become contaminated during consumer use. This paper presents an in vitro challenge method for assessing the preservative efficacy of cosmetic products under typical consumer use conditions. Two products were used, an anionic shampoo and