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j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 221-234 (July/August 1993) Light scattering and shine measurements of human hair: A sensitive probe of the hair surface CHARLES REICH and CLARENCE R. ROBBINS, Colgate-Palmolive Research Center, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854-I343. Received January 29, I993. Synopsis In this paper, an instrumental method for measuring hair shine is presented and shown to exhibit excellent correlation with a large series of subjective evaluations of shine. In addition to providing shine values, the light-scattering methods developed are shown, in many cases, to provide a sensitive means of following changes to the hair surface, including deposition (soiling), particle removal (cleaning), and even interactions on the fiber surface. Employing the developed methods, the effect of washing hair tresses with a series of commercial shampoos is investigated. The effects examined are shown to fall into three classes: Shampoos without highly substantive ingredients left hair in its cleanest and shiniest state. Shampoos containing ingredients substantive to hair (polycationics and soap) left deposits on the fiber surface and dulled the hair. The worst dulling was observed when particles deposited on the hair from one shampoo formed a complex with particles contained in a second product. INTRODUCTION Shiny hair is consistently cited by consumers in panels and surveys as one of the most desirable of cosmetic attributes. As a result, much effort has been expended in recent years to understand the physical phenomena that give rise to shine and also to quantitate this desirable hair attribute. The most effective means described in the literature to study hair shine has been the use of a goniophotometer to measure light scattering by hair fibers (1-4). Goniophotometric techniques have been used by the authors of references 1-4 to relate light-scattering patterns to hair morphology and also to develop formulas relating goniophotometric data to hair shine. Unfortunately, the bulk of the effort in the above studies has been concerned with explaining the light-scattering patterns only cursory efforts were made to relate calcu- lated shine values to panelists' subjective evaluations. In addition, little effort was made to systematically apply the methods developed in these papers to problems related to hair care. In this paper, a large series of subjective evaluations of hair shine is reported and shown 221