234 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS deposited in the form of a film. Depending upon the orientation of its various parts, such a film might cause little or no dulling and, in fact, might even increase hair shine. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We are grateful to Mr. Frank Schebece of Colgate-Palmolive, who performed the modification of the Brice-Phoenix photometer and also provided us with many useful suggestions. Most of the tress experiments were performed by Ms. Donna Hartnett and Ms. Judy McKendrick. REFERENCES (1) R. F. Stature, M. L. Garcia, and J. J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. 1. Fundamental considerations and goniophotometer curves, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 571-599 (1977). (2) R. F. Stature, M. L. Garcia, and J. J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. II. The luster of hair fibers,.]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 601-609 (1977). (3) A. Guiolet, J. C. Garson, and J. L. Leveque, Study of the optical properties of human hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 9, 111-124 (1987). (4) H. K. Bustard and R. W. Smith, Studies of factors affecting light scattering by individual human hair fibres, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 12, 121-133 (1990). (5) W. J. Conover, Practical Nonparametric Statistics, 2nd ed. (John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1980), pp. 299-300. (6) R. Jeffries, Measurement of the extent of delustring of filament fabrics. Part I. Description of instrument and method of measurement,.]. Text. Inst., 46, T319-T328 (1956). (7) J. S. Christie, An instrument for the geometric attributes of metallic appearance, Appl. Opt., 8, 1777-1785 (1969). (8) B. J. Tighe, "Subjective and Objective Assessment of Surfaces," in Polymer Surfaces, D. T. Clark and W. J. Feast, Eds. (John Wiley & Sons, Chichester, 1978), pp. 269-286. (9) D. Nickerson, A raw cotton lustermeter for yarns and fabrics, Text, Res. J., 27, 111-123 (1957). (10) L. E. Holboke and L. P. Berriman, A study of the effect of cotton fiber structure on luster, Text. Res. J., 33, 205-217 (1963). (11) C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 2nd ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 1988), pp. 273-274. (12) R. J. Crawford and C. R. Robbins, A replacement for Rubine dye for detecting cationics on keratin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 31, 273-278 (1980). (13) W. Mendenhall, Introduction to Probability and Statistics (Duxbury Press, Boston, 1983), pp. 630-634. (14) D. B. Judd and G. Wyszecki, Color in Business, Science, and Industry, 2nd ed. (John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1963), p. 381.

j. Soc. Cosmet. Cheat., 44, 235-238 (July/August 1993) Chlorophyllin copper complex: Quality control SIMON CHERNOMORSKY, Department of Molecular Biology and Biochemistry, Rutgers University, P.O. Box 1059, Piscataway NJ 08855-1059. Received February 2, 1993. Synopsis The currently employed spectrophotometric method in its present version is not reliable to control the quality of commercially available chlorophyllin copper complex (CCC). This quantitative assay may sig- nificantly overestimate the purity of CCC compared to that obtained on the basis of elemental analysis (copper and nitrogen content). The presence of uncoppered chlorophyll derivatives and carotenoids could account for the erroneous data. These results are discussed in the context of approaches for the improvement of CCC quality control. Chlorophyllin copper complex (CCC) is a modified plant product known for decades to be used as a natural colorant (1) and as an internal deodorant and wound healing agent (2). It is obtained from chlorophyll by saponification and replacement of chelated magnesium with copper (3). Commercially available CCC is not a chemically pure compound but a mixture of several water-soluble chlorophyll derivatives, the compo- sition of which varies depending upon the manufacturing conditions employed (4). A spectrophotometric assay was suggested for the quantitative analysis of CCC (5). This method, however, has been shown to be unreliable. Voigtlander and Henning (6), following the established procedure, found in some samples a purity reaching up to 160%. As discussed later, even in studies where the calculated amount of chlorophyll derivatives in CCC did not exceed 100%, the observations made by spectrophotometry contradict the data obtained from elemental analysis. The following explanation can be given for the erroneous data resulting from the spectrophotometric assay of CCC. This method is based on the optical properties of CCC in the blue region of the spectrum. The absorptivity of CCC in this area increases significantly if other coloring compounds are present with the coppered chlorophyll derivatives. Here we will analyze results obtained elsewhere to demonstrate that metal- free chlorophyll analogs and carotenoids may account for the errors in the spectrophoto- metric quantitative assay of CCC. Trisodium copper chlorine 6 (C 31H31N4Cu (COONa) 3) and disodium cooper isochlorin e 4 (C3•H32N4Cu (COONa) 2) are the main chlorophyll derivatives reported in CCC (7-9). Based on these observations, we calculated that the theoretical content of chelated copper and nitrogen in a 100% pure CCC is 9.2% and 8.1%, respectively. The data have been compared with the values of these elements (3.9-4.3%) found in CCC 235