PROPERTIES OF JOJOBA OIL 379 CH3 (CH2)m+9COO(CH2)n+9CH3 rn = 7, 9, 11, 13 n = 8, 10, 12, 14 m(%) = 11, 71, 14, 1 n(%) = 1, 45, 44, 9 Figure 2. Hydrogenated jojoba oil structure. Table I Physical Properties Analysis Hydrogenated Refined jojoba oil Pure jojoba oil jojoba oil Method (AOCS) (lot AJA-PN) (lot AJA-SR) (lot FEED25) Acid value Peroxide value Moisture content Color Refractive index Specific gravity Iodine value Saponification value Ci-4-91 0.055 0.38 0.5 Cd-8b-90 Not detected Not detected 0.1 Ca 2e-84 0.005% 0.013% (Karl Fisher) Ce 13e-92 1 Y/0.1 R 59 Y/4.0 R 1 Y/0.4 R (Lovibond 5 1/4") Cc-7-25 1.4660 (22øC) 1.4655 (23øC) Cc-10a-25 0.864 0.865 Cd-lb-87 82.3 80.78 1.7 Cd-3-25 93.6 93 93 before being removed. Test sites were then evaluated and scored based on the degree of irritation and/or pre-sensitization, approximately 48 hours after patch applications (no evidence of pre-sensitization was seen). Following evaluation, the patch application and evaluation procedures were repeated until nine "inductions" occurred. After the ninth induction, subjects commenced the "rest period" of approximately two weeks, during which no applications of test material occurred. Immediately following the rest period, each of the test materials was applied to naive skin sites for approximately 24 hours (termed "challenge" phase) evaluations and scores were performed approximately 48 and 96 hours after these patch applications. PHOTOTOXICITY STUDY This study was designed to evaluate the cutaneous phototoxic potential of the following test articles: pure and refined jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and distilled water (negative control). A 150-watt solar ultraviolet simulator (Solar Light Co., Philadelphia, PA) provided the

380 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ultraviolet radiation source in this study. The l-ram WG-320 and l-ram UG-11 was used to provide a basic solar-like spectrum (UVB: 290-320 nanometers UVA: 320-400 nanometers). For pure UVA exposures, the UVB was removed with a 2-ram WG-345 filter allowing only solar-like UVA radiation exposures. Only subjects with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, and III were impaneled (6,7). Each subject's minimal erythema dose (MED) was estimated prior to patch applications. This was done by exposing five paraspinal test sites to UVB irradiation such that each test site received approximately 25% more total irradiation than the previous site. Visual evalu- ation approximately 24 hours later revealed the actual MED. Subjects' reactions were then allowed to resolve for at least 96 hours prior to continuing with the study. Each subject received one set of the four test articles, by patch application, to each of two paraspinal regions. Approximately 24 hours after the patch applications, patches within the left paraspinal region were removed. These test sites were exposed to 16 joules/cm 2 of UVA irradiation and approximately 0.75 MED of UVB irradiation, for a total ad- ministration of approximately one MED. Patches on the right paraspinal region were also removed at this time but were not irradiated. Visual evaluations were performed approximately 1, 24, 48, and 72 hours after removal of the patches. COMEDOGENICITY STUDY At the initial visit, one follicular biopsy was taken to assess each candidate's potential for comedone production. This method is a variation of the procedure published by Mills and Kligman (5). This procedure involves pressing a glass slide coated with two drops of methyl cyanoacrylate glue against the upper back to create an even layer of polymer. The glass slide is then gently peeled away, bringing with it any microcomedones. Study subjects must exhibit at least one microcomedone per 2-cm i area when viewed under a stereomicroscope to qualify as a panelist for the test. Test articles and controls were administered to the suprascapular regions under occluded patch conditions. As a positive control, Acetulan was used a blank patch served as the negative control. The patches were replaced with identical patches three times per week (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) until a continuous exposure of 28 days was achieved. With each patch replacement, the test sites were cleansed with sterile water and allowed to air dry prior to application of the next patches. At the conclusion of the study, test sites (2 cm 2) were evaluated for microcomedones with one follicular biopsy at each test site. RESULTS HUMAN REPEAT INSULT PATCH TEST RESULTS Healthy subjects, of age range 18-65 years, were impaneled in this study. Refined, pure, and hydrogenated jojoba oil provided no identifiable clinical evidence (e.g., erythema, edema) of contact sensitization. These results are summarized in Table II. PHOTOTOXICITY STUDY RESULTS Seventeen healthy subjects, of age range 23-60 years, completed the study. Under the