NATURAL MOISTURIZING AGENT IN SKIN 359 occurring in the skin is surprisingly high (2% by weight). Speaking only from a teleological viewpoint, it would seem that the production of large amounts of the material almost exclusively in the skin must serve some function. At the pH of skin, it can be shown that PCA exists almost entirdy in the salt form. In this form, it is found to be highly hygroscopic and at higher relative humidities dissolves in its own water of hydration. An- alytical studies have established a relationship between the amount of this material found in the stratum corncure and the moisture-binding ability of the stratum corneum. The pathway by which this material is synthesized in the skin is un- known. The aqueous extracts of the skin are relatively rich in free amino acids. It has been proposed that these arise from the catabolic breakdown of proteins during keratinization. Since PCA can be formed via the cyclization of glutamic acid with heat, it is possible that some enzymatic cyclization of glutamic acid occurs in the skin. It has been shown (26, 27) that in the enzymatic synthesis of gluta- mine from glutamic acid there is formed an intermediate T-activated glutamate. In the presence of NH• q- ions this is converted to gluta- mine. In the absence of NH4 q- ions, however, the intermediate is con- verted into PCA. Attempts were made to determine whether glutamic acid in skin could act as a direct precursor of PCA, perhaps via formation of an 3'- activated glutamate. Rat skin homogenates were used in the experi- ments after the presence of PCA was established in both guinea pig skin and rat skin. Under the conditions used in these experiments, PCA was not formed from glutamic acid. Obviously, this does not preclude the possibility that it could form under different conditions. An alternative pathway by which PCA may be formed may involve the catabolism of proteins occurring during keratinization. If an acti- vated glutamate is formed during protein catabolism, this may be con- verted directly into PCA. Thus, protein-bound glutamate rather than free glutamate may represent the precursor of PCA. Further experi- mentation in this area is needed. (Received September 20, 1966) REFERENCES (1) Blank, I. H., Factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum, J. Invest. Dermatol, 18, 433 (1952). (2) Idem., Further observations on factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum, ibid., 21,259 (1953). (3) Kligman, A. 1Vi., The Biology of the Stratum Corneum, in 1Vfontagna, W., and Lobitz, W. C., Jr., The Epidermis, Academic Press, New York, 1964.
36O JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) Jacobi, O., Hygroscopic properties and the wettability of keratin materials, Kolloid-Z., 114, 88 (1949). Jacobi, O., Water and water vapor absorption of the stratmn corneum of the living human skin, J. Appl. Physiol., 12,403 (1958). Spier, H. W., and Pascher, G., Die Wasser16slichen Bestandteile der peripheren Hornschicht (Hautoberfl•iche) Allgemeines. Stickstoffhaltige Substanzen, Arch. Dermatol., 199,411 (1955). Idem., Freie Aminos•iuren an der Hautoberfl•iche, ibid., 200, 59 (1955). Spier, H. W., and Pascher, G., Die Wasser16slichen Bestandteile der peripheren Horn- schicht (Hautoberfl•iche) Stickstoffreie S•iuren und Basen, Arch. Klin. Exptl. Derma- tol., 201, 181 (1955). Pascher, G., Die Wasser16slichen Bestandteile der peripheren Hornschicht (Hautober- fl•iche) a-pyrrolidoncarbons•iure, Arch. Kiln. Exptl. Dermatol., 203,234 (1956). Pascher, G., and Spier, H. W., Die Wasser16slichen Bestandteile der peripheren Horn- schicht (Hautoberfl•iche): die Ursache der Thermolabilit•it des Oberfl•ichen-pH, Arch. Klin. t•xptl. Dermatol., 203,239 (1956). Pascher, G., yon Steinvuck, G., and Spier, H. W., Die Wasser16slichen Bestandteile der peripheren Hornschicht (Hautoberfl/iche) zur inhomogenen Verteilung yon a-Amino Stickstoff, Milchs•iure, Chlorid, Kalium (und Natrium) im Stratum Disjunctum, Arch. Klin and t•xptl. Dermatol., 204,140 (1957). Szakall, A., 1)bet die Eigenschaften, Herkunft und physiologischen Funktionen der die H-Ionenkonzentration bestimmenden Wirkstoffe in der verhornten Epidermis, Arch. Klin t•xptl. Dermatol., 201,331 (1955). Szakall, A., Physiologische Prinzipien bei der Entwicklung wirksamer Pr/iparate zur Gesunderhaltung der Haut, unter besonderer Berficksichtigung der VerhiJtung yon Beruflichen Hautsch•iden, Arzneimittel-Forsch., 7, 408 (1957). Fox, C., et al., Modification of Water Holding Capacity of Callus by Pretreatment with additives, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 13,263 (1962). Gruneberg, T., and Szakall, A., Uber den Gehalt an Schwefel und Wasser16slichen Bestandteilen in der verhornten Epidermis bei normaler und pathologischer Verhornung (Psoriasis), Arch. Klin Exptl. Dermatol., 201,361 (1955). Schmidli, B., and Paschoud, J. M., Amino acids and polypeptides in psoriatic skin, Dermatologica, 110,323 (1955). Flesch, P., and Esoda, E. C. J., Deficient Water-Binding in Pathologic Horny Layers, J. Invest. Dermatol., 28, 5 (1957). Flesch, P., Hodgson, C., and Esoda, E. C. J., Water Soluble Organic Components ot Psoriatic Scales, Arch. Dermatol., 85,476 (1962). Wheatley, V. R., and Farbet, E. M.: Studies on the Chemical Composition of Psoriatic Scales, J. Invest. Dermatol., 36, 199 (1961). Jacobi, O., Moisture regulation in the skin, Drug Cosmetic Ind., 84,732 (1959). Rydon, H. N., and Smith, P. W. G., A New Method for the Detection of Peptides and Similar Compounds on Paper Chromatograms, Nature, 169, 922 (1962). Moore, S., and Stein, W. H., Chromatography of amino acids on sulfonated polystyrene resins, J. Biol. Chem., 192,663 (1951). Rosen, H., A modified ninhydrin colorimetric analysis for amino acids, Arch. Biochem. Biophys., 67, 10 (1957). Shedecor, G. S., Statistical Methods, 5th ed., Iowa State Coll. Press, Iowa, 1956, Sec. 7.8. Gaul, L. E., and Underwood, G. B., Relation of Dew Point and Barometric Pressure to Chapping of Normal Skin, J. Invest. Dermatol., 19, 9 (1952). Varner, J.E., The optical specificity of glutamine synthetase, Arch. Blochem. and Bio- phys., 90, 7 (1960). Krishnaswany, P. R., Pamiljans, V., and Meister, A., Activated glutamate intermediate in the enzymatic synthesis of glutamine, J. Biol. Chem., 235, PC 39 (1960).
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