16 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS I refer to Chryst, nthemum balsamira, also known as Balsamira vulgaris, N.O. Compositae, and bearing the almost forgotten names of maudeline, alecost or costmary (Costus Maria), Costis being a generic Greek term for certain spicy roots, and in the days when ale was home-brewed, costmary was usually added to impart an agreeable sharp tang to the beverage, hence the name alecost. Costmary is a shade-loving plant growing some two feet high, bearing insignificant greenish white flowers. The scent of the living plant has been described as giving an initial impression similar to that of a weak mint sauce, but the foliage, upon bruising, reveals a unique fragrance which I can best liken by a liaison of iso-butyl cinnamate and methyl ionone slightly shaded with carvone. We may perhaps recollect that the advent of clary sage into perfumery was as recent as 1909, and it is very probable in my opinion that should this equally modest herb--or some of its near relations, such as B. cornuta, the red-flowered Asiatic "horned balsam"---ever achieve commercial impor- tance, it would prove to be a valuable alternative to clary sage, for among the other virtues which I believe it to possess, a hint from an old Herbal indicates that not only does it confer a delicious scent to potpourri, but intensifies the fragrance of all the ingredients therein. BALSAMIC EPITOME I have taken this opportunity in dealing with the balsams on their own terrain to digress somewhat upon the balm and balsatalc motif, because, although prior consideration has already partly positioned this redolence in the essay upon Labdanum and Cistaceae? as well as the balm and balsam liaison as noted in the Hypericaceae (St. John's-worts), I would regard these sources as a prelude to a longer chapter, for among natural fragrance there is considerable evidence of the balm or lemon-verbena nuance, either dominant or merging with the balsamic, while the transition of the latter into the "aromatic" by the gradual acquisition of such osmophores as vanilla, cinna- mon and clove provides the pattern for an extensive range of tropical blossom odours in many of which the citrous element again emerges. MINOR MEMBERS OF THE GERANIUM FAMILY Among the lesser-known members of this unique family are the Lim- nanthes (Latin: limnus = a marsh). These are dwarf hardy annuals known as the Californian marsh flowers, of which L. Douglasii is a typical example. As found in the wild state, particularly in South-East England, its pretty little yellow and white flowers have earned for it the local name of "eggs and bacon." This plant, as well as L. rosea and L. alba, is a favourite with the bees and possesses a sweet melissa-like fragrance--a further example of the incidence of the citrous nuance found within this N.O.

THE GERANIUM FAMILY IN PERFUMERY 17 THE OXALIDACEAE It is perhaps a little strange to find that Oxalis acetosella, the familiar sorrel of our woodlands and hedgerows, belongs to the Geranium family, the names in most languages being indicative of the sour acid juice in the delicate shamrock-like leaves. Originally also from South Africa and bearing white or pale tinted flowers often streaked with mauve, it is a large genus containing some 30 wild and over 150 cultivated species. It is, however, only occasionally among this array that there is any suggestion of scent. O. odorata and 0. montana exhibit a faint, nondescript "neutral" perfume, but this is more evident in the South African 0. magellanica, which inclines to a lily-honey fragrance, while the South American 0. enneaphylla has characteristic waxen-white petals which emit a decided almond-like scent. The nasturtium of the flower gardens is another example of misnaming, for the term rightly belongs to the watercress family, N. O. Cruciferae. We find that from the Latin: nasus = nose and tortus: tormented, is indicated the proclivity of an acrid nose-stinging pungent smell---this mustard-like odour peculiar to the cresses being shared by the Tropaeolum, the Indian cress, yellow larkspur or garden nasturtium. The botanical name through the Greek and Latin refers to a trophy from the fancied resemblance of the shield-shaped leaves and the helmet-like flowers. Apparently this was originally a Peruvian climber renowned for the glowing sunny brilliance and beauty of its scarlet-orange, trumpet-like blossoms, of which T. majus, the large, and T. aduncum, the canary creeper, are probably the best known, while the seeds pickled in vinegar have for long been known as "false capers." The content of traces of benzyl iso- thiocyanate, which is more evident in the roots, accounts for the "mustard and cress" association. With regard to fragrance, a cluster of blossoms on a hot sunny day may give the impression of a very faint, nondescript scent, but under similar circumstances, if left in a covered jar for a few hours, it is likely that the slightly medicated odour of phenylethyl cyanide will be observed. Although a fairly large genus, the only specieq I can trace with any definite evidence of a perfume is T. tuberosum, the Peruvian tuberous-rooted nasturtium, the red and yellow blossoms of which have a similar lily-honey fragrance as noted with Oxalis magellanica, which incidentally is just perceptible in the aquatic Hydrocera (or Tytonia) natans and H. trifiora. These are the East Indian water balsams, bearing large white flowers variegated with red and yellow. FRUITS IN THE GERANIUM FAMILY It may perhaps be a little surprising to find edible fruits within the Geranium family, nevertheless, indigenous to India may be found two small,