THE GERANIUM FAMILY IN PERFUMERY 17 THE OXALIDACEAE It is perhaps a little strange to find that Oxalis acetosella, the familiar sorrel of our woodlands and hedgerows, belongs to the Geranium family, the names in most languages being indicative of the sour acid juice in the delicate shamrock-like leaves. Originally also from South Africa and bearing white or pale tinted flowers often streaked with mauve, it is a large genus containing some 30 wild and over 150 cultivated species. It is, however, only occasionally among this array that there is any suggestion of scent. O. odorata and 0. montana exhibit a faint, nondescript "neutral" perfume, but this is more evident in the South African 0. magellanica, which inclines to a lily-honey fragrance, while the South American 0. enneaphylla has characteristic waxen-white petals which emit a decided almond-like scent. The nasturtium of the flower gardens is another example of misnaming, for the term rightly belongs to the watercress family, N. O. Cruciferae. We find that from the Latin: nasus = nose and tortus: tormented, is indicated the proclivity of an acrid nose-stinging pungent smell---this mustard-like odour peculiar to the cresses being shared by the Tropaeolum, the Indian cress, yellow larkspur or garden nasturtium. The botanical name through the Greek and Latin refers to a trophy from the fancied resemblance of the shield-shaped leaves and the helmet-like flowers. Apparently this was originally a Peruvian climber renowned for the glowing sunny brilliance and beauty of its scarlet-orange, trumpet-like blossoms, of which T. majus, the large, and T. aduncum, the canary creeper, are probably the best known, while the seeds pickled in vinegar have for long been known as "false capers." The content of traces of benzyl iso- thiocyanate, which is more evident in the roots, accounts for the "mustard and cress" association. With regard to fragrance, a cluster of blossoms on a hot sunny day may give the impression of a very faint, nondescript scent, but under similar circumstances, if left in a covered jar for a few hours, it is likely that the slightly medicated odour of phenylethyl cyanide will be observed. Although a fairly large genus, the only specieq I can trace with any definite evidence of a perfume is T. tuberosum, the Peruvian tuberous-rooted nasturtium, the red and yellow blossoms of which have a similar lily-honey fragrance as noted with Oxalis magellanica, which incidentally is just perceptible in the aquatic Hydrocera (or Tytonia) natans and H. trifiora. These are the East Indian water balsams, bearing large white flowers variegated with red and yellow. FRUITS IN THE GERANIUM FAMILY It may perhaps be a little surprising to find edible fruits within the Geranium family, nevertheless, indigenous to India may be found two small,

18 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS but very interesting trees, as instanced by A verrhoa c•rambola, the kumrunga , which grows to a height of about 16 feet and is remarkable first for the beauty of its crowded clusters of small pale rose-coloured ribes-like flowers which produce fruit the size of a lemon. These, when well-ripened, have a strong and agreeable quince-like scent and something of a nutty peach flavour. Belonging to the same genus is A. Bilimbi, the bimbling or cucum- ber tree, which flowers in a similar way to the above, but the fruit is of the form and size of a gherkin, with a smooth, thin, pale green, translucent rind, like that of the white grape. When ripe it is as soft as butter, with a flavour like an unripe gooseberry and afterwards acquiring the aroma of strawberries. SUMMARY It is evident from the statistical data that Geranium and/or geraniol are extensively used as the basis for the formulation of all kinds of artificial floral oils and fancy bouquets while the rose odour is particular to the Pelargoniums, which occupy the dominant position in the Family, and with one exception the remaining items recorded may be regarded as of minor importance. This study has directed attention to one of the modest members of the family around which some genera from other N.O.s have been arranged, a sector which may perhaps conveniently be named as the Balsamina, and from this group at some time there may become available a companion to clary sage. Regarding this latter herb, with its musky-amber character, W. A. Poucher, in Volume I, makes a very interesting remark, for he says: "It is this aroma which is so distinctive in fine quality essential oils, such as certain varieties of geranium and neroli, and which is absent in synthetic aromatic chemicals, as instanced by geraniol and nerol (in comparison)." Although we have observed the balsamic-labdanum redolence to be an integral part in many of the pelargonium oils, yet by removing this somewhat heavy nuance and replacing it with an Essence of Balsamina, some remarkably interesting results might, in my view, become apparent. REFERENCES • Maurer, E. S., Th• oess•ntials of P•rfum• Compounding, Part 2 of which, "The Natural Orders," is currently being serialised in Soap, P•rf•ery • ½os•tics. • Ibid., a series in which this paper will eventually take its place as the nineteenth essay. • Ibid., July, 1956.