350 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (9) K. Hashimoto-Kumasaka, K. Takahashi and H. Tagami, Electrical measurement of the water content of the stratum comeurn in viva and in vitro under various conditions: Comparison between skin surface hygrometer and corneometer in evaluation of the skin surface hydration state, Acta Derm. Venereal. (Stackh.), 73, 335-339 (1993). (10) E. Berardesca, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum comeurn hydration: Electrical methods, Skin Res. Techn., 3, 126-132 (1997). (11) J. Pinnagoda, R. A. Tupker, T. Agner, and J. Setup. Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement, Contact Dermatitis, 22, 164-178 (1990). (12) J. H. Blank and E. B. Shappirio, The water content of the stratum comeurn. III. Effects of previous contact with aquaeous solutions of soap and detergents. J. Invest. DermataL, 25, 391•401 (1955).
j. Cosmet. sci., 49, 351-359 (November/December 1998) Areca catechu L. extract. II. Effects on inflammation and melanogenesis KUN KOOK LEE and JUNG DO CHOI, R&D Center, Coreana Cosmetics Co. Ltd., 204-1 Jeongchon-ri, Cheonan-si, Chungnam 333-830 (K. K. Lee), and Department of Biochemistry, College of Natural Science, Chungbuk National University, Cheong/u, Chungbuk 361-763 •. D. Choi), South Korea. Accepted for publication October 15, 1998. Synopsis Ethanolic extract (CC-516) from Areca catechu L. was prepared, and its various biological activities were evaluated. CC-516 showed potent anti-oxidative, free-radical scavenging, and anti-hyaluronidase activity. The anti-oxidative effect of CC-516 (IC5o: 45.4 t•g/ml) was lower than that of butylated hydroxytoluene (IC5o: 5 t•g/ml), but similar to that of tocopherol and higher than that of ascorbic acid. Especially, CC-516 exhibited relatively high free-radical scavenging activity (IC5o: 10.2 t•g/ml) compared to that of the control. CC-516 effectively inhibited hyaluronidase activity (IC5o: 416 t•g/ml) and showed inhibition in vivo on delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil-induced ear edema in mice when it was topically applied. These results strongly suggest that CC-516 may reduce immunoregulatory/inflammatory skin trouble. Also, from the results, we have elucidated that CC-516 showed anti-allergic and anti-cytotoxicity activity. The whitening effect of CC-516 is shown by the inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity with an IC5o value of 0.48 mg/ml and of melanin synthesis in B 16 melanoma cells. This study indicates that CC-516 is effective on anti-inflammatory activity/anti-melanogenesis, and can be used as a new agent for cosmetics. INTRODUCTION Plant sources have been evaluated for developing natural antioxidants and melanogenesis inhibitors that may be involved in anti-aging and skin whitening (1). Many endoge- neous plant compounds have been reported to retard the oxidation process in their natural environment (2). Natural antioxidants occur in all higher plants and in all parts of the plant. Typical compounds that possess antioxidative activities include tocopherols, fiavonoids, cinnamic acid derivatives, phosphates, and polyfunctional organic acids. Recent studies indicate that the compounds with antioxidative and free-radical scav- enging activities can inhibit mutagenesis and carcinogenesis in addition to retardation of aging (1-3). High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has an important role in the regulation of scarless repair in fetal wound healing by markedly diminishing the in- fiammatory response (4). However, degradation products of hyaluronic acid lead to increased inflammation, angiogenesis, fibrosis, and collagen deposition in wound heal- 351
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