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J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 405–414 (July/August 2009) 405 Determination of total lead in lipstick: Development and validation of a microwave-assisted digestion, inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometric method NANCY M. HEPP, WILLIAM R. MINDAK, and JOHN CHENG, Offi ce of Cosmetics and Colors (N.M.H) and Offi ce of Regulatory Science (W.R.M., J.C.), Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, College Park, MD 20740. Accepted for publication May 6, 2009. Synopsis Recent reports describing the presence of lead (Pb) in lipsticks have suggested that, under ordinary use, the potential amount of Pb exposure is harmful. To permit independent assessment of the Pb contamination, a method for determining total Pb in lipstick using microwave-assisted digestion and analysis employing in- ductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (ICP–MS) was developed and validated. Since lipsticks may contain fats, oils, pigments, dyes, and minerals, several reference materials (RM) were analyzed, including coal, wear metals in oil, organic Pb in oil, milk powder, and estuarine sediment. With the exception of the RM with mineral content (estuarine sediment), complete recovery of Pb from the RMs was obtained by simple nitric acid (HNO3) digestion. Complete recovery of Pb from estuarine sediment was achieved only when hydrofl uoric acid (HF) was added to the digestion mix, followed by treatment with excess boric acid (H3BO3) to neutralize the HF and to dissolve insoluble fl uorides. Commercial lipsticks were tested for total Pb by the validated method. The detection limit was estimated to be 0.04 μg Pb/g. The average value obtained for the lipsticks was 1.07 μg/g. Undigested material was present in some lipstick digests when only HNO3 was used, and generally lower Pb values were obtained. All of the Pb levels found by the U.S. Food and Drug Adminis- tration (FDA) were within the range the agency would expect to fi nd in lipsticks formulated with permitted color additives and other ingredients prepared under good manufacturing practice (GMP) conditions. This method will be useful for the FDA and industry in helping to ensure the safety of cosmetic products. INTRODUCTION Although major sources of lead (Pb) contamination from leaded gasoline, Pb-based paints, Pb in public water systems, and Pb solder for sealing canned foods have been reduced through various regulatory actions, public concerns still exist over possible sources of Pb contamination. Pb from gasoline and paint can remain in soil and dust for many years, and imported foods and cosmetics may contain unsafe levels of Pb (1). The FDA issued warnings in 2003 for litargirio, a yellow- or peach-colored powder used in traditional remedies by people of Central America and the Caribbean region, particularly the Dominican Republic, because it contains up to 79% Pb. In 2003 and 2006 the FDA issued warnings for kohl, a traditional cosmetic eyeliner common in the Middle East, North Africa, Sub-Saharan Africa, and South Asia, because it frequently contains more than 50% Pb.