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J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, 383–391 ( July/August 2011) 383 The uptake of water hardness metals by human hair A. O. EVANS, J. M. MARSH, and R. R. WICKETT, James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, 3225 Eden Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45267-0004 (A.O.E., R.R.W.), and The Procter & Gamble Company, Miami Valley Innovation Center, 11810 East Miami River Road, Cincinnati, OH 45252 ( J.M.M.). Accepted for publication April 19, 2011. Synopsis The objective of this work was to examine the variables that infl uence the interaction between water hardness metals and human hair. Hair extracts various constituents from the tap water used during daily hygiene practices and chemical treatments. Calcium and magnesium metal ions are the most prevalent and give water “hardness.” Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy (ICP-AES) was employed to quantify the metal content of hair, which was studied as a function of the following variables: hair condition (oxidative damage), level of water hardness, and water pH. We have demonstrated that these variables impact water hardness metal uptake to varying extents, and the effects are driven primarily by the binding capacity (available anionic sites) of the hair. The condition of the hair, a key representation of the binding capacity, was most infl uential. Interestingly, water hardness levels had only a small effect on uptake hair became saturated with notable amounts of water hardness metals even after repeated exposure to soft water. Water pH infl u- enced metal uptake since side chains of hair proteins deprotonate with increasing alkalinity. These insights highlight the importance to the hair care industry of understanding the interaction between water hardness metals and hair. INTRODUCTION The uptake of metal cations, specifi cally redox active metals, by various types of keratin fi bers has been investigated in the scientifi c literature (1– 4). However, less attention has been focused on water hardness metals, particularly from a consumer-relevant standpoint. Calcium and magnesium metal ions are most prevalent in tap water and give water “hard- ness.” Acting as an cation-exchange resin, human hair has been reported to extract up to 10,000 ppm of these metal ions from the tap water used during hygiene practices (5), and consumers associate the use of hard (and soft) water with differences in various structural and cosmetic properties of hair. Given that human hair is exposed to water for a signifi - cant portion of its lifetime, an understanding of the interaction between the components of water and hair is important. Past research efforts have established the location of water hardness metals in hair. This work has indicated that calcium is present primarily in the cuticle of hair fi bers. Kempson et al. and Mérigoux et al. used the imaging capabilities of time of fl ight secondary ion