j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 243-249 (July/August 1989) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in theJournaL--The Editor. Annual Scientific Meeting December 7-8, 1989 The New York Hilton, New York City James Akerson (Clairol, Inc.), Chairman, 1989 SCIENTIFIC SESSION A ADVANCES IN SURFACE SCIENCE I A short walk through surface chemistry: View- points on cosmetics Paul Becher, Paul Becher Associates Ltd., P.O. Box 7335, Wilmington, DE 19803 A preliminary discussion of the theoretical back- ground of surface chemistry, with particular atten- tion to the behavior of surface-active agents, is fol- lowed by some thoughts on how some recent devel- opments (in, for example, lipid behavior and micellization) can be connected with practical ap- plications (for example, skin mildness). Micelies, solubilization, liquid crystals, lipo- somes, and skin structure modelling Stig E. Friberg, Department of Chemistry, Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676 Surfactants adsorb strongly to interfaces, a phenom- enon of importance for emulsion and foam stability. In addition, they spontaneously form their own in- terfaces within one-phase parts or systems. The result, miceIlar and liquid crystalline organiza- tions, has a pronounced influence on the properties of macro-dispersed systems such as emulsions and foams as well as on many biological tissues. As an example of the latter, the lipid organization in the stratum comeurn will be reviewed. SCIENTIFIC SESSION B FRONTIERS OF SCIENCE LECTURE Sponsored by Felton Worldwide, Inc. Topobiology G. M. Edelman, The Neurosciences Institute of the Neuroscience Research Program, 1230 York Av- enue, New York, NY 1002 ! There is at present no adequate theory of develop- ment in the sense that there are adequate theories of evolution and genetics. The reason is that the mo- lecular processes leading to the formation in time of animal form are just beginning to be described. The key question is: How does the one-dimensional ge- netic code specify a three-dimensional animal of a given species? Recent analysis of the fundamental processes regu- lating development have given new insights that promise an answer to this question. A major clue rests in our understanding of the molecules that mediate the adhesion of one cell type to another. Some of these molecules are now identified, and ex- periments of the times and places of their expression give further clues to their regulation during devel- opment. These findings suggest that the study of place-dependent expression of such morphoregula- tory molecules (a field I have called topobiology) will be particularly fruitful. This field bears on how cells move and tissue sheets fold to form embryonic patterns. In this lecture, I will review these issues, 243

244 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS show how topobiological interactions can alter tissue pattern and animal form, and comment upon some possible applications of these findings. SCIENTIFIC SESSION C (Concurrent) PRODUCT EVALUATION Clinical evaluation of cosmetic products: A cri- tique of current concepts Morton Pader, Ph.D., Consumer Products Devel- opment Resources, Inc., 1358 Sussex Road, Teaneck, NJ 07666 The design and interpretation of clinical trials of cosmetic products are explored. A valid assessment of the efficacy of a new product must take into ac- count at least two major concerns: (1) the nature of the placebo or control and (2) compliance of the subject with predetermined product dosage. The first concern involves overcoming the Hawthorne effect in the clinical design. This is usually at- tempted by the use of a placebo, but the approach is not always sound, as demonstrated by examination of pertinent reports to be cited from the literature. Compliance with product usage is rarely accommo- dated in clinical trial design. A review of published studies suggests clinical trials can be usefully con- sidered in three categories for evaluation of product efficacy. These encompass a hierarchy of designs ranging from testing of product and elements thereof in simple, well-established vehicles and evaluation systems, through field trials which bring into play the factor of compliance. Examples from the literature and practice are given to illustrate features of three types of clinical trial and the role of each in complete product evaluation. Negative aspects of some currently favored clinical designs are critiqued based on these examples. Combined application of topographical and light reflectance methods for evaluation of skin condition Peter L. Dorogi, Ph.D., Peter R. Hilliard, Jr., Ph.D., Alfred A. Hambidge, Jr., and June T. Hull, Clairol, Inc., Clairol Research Laboratory, 2 Blachley Road, Stamford, CT 06922 Short-term exposure of skin to cold hexane induces a clearly visible "ashy" condition, similar to that seen in severely dry skin conditions. Detailed mi- croscopic examination of the skin surface, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and high-reso- lution profilometry, reveals the prevalence of loose scales and a relatively flat surface relief, and shows that the perceptible ashiness induced by hexane is due to both surface damage and dehydration. An investigation was conducted to see whether the re- sponse to hexane can be used as a predictive tool to test the tendency to develop dry skin symptoms. The appearance of dryness was assessed objectively using tristimulus parameters (L,a,b) to describe re- flectance properties of the skin. Measurements were obtained on 15 subjects before and after hexane ex- posure, during both summer and winter. Results include the finding that total reflectance (L) is more dramatically affected in winter than summer (p 0.001), and suggest the possibility of using hexane-enhanced light refectance from the skin for objective assessments of the susceptibility to dry- ness. Consumer-driven product development-- Creating winning products by putting con- sumers into the development loop Howard R. Moskowitz, Ph.D., Moskowitz/Jacobs, Inc., 14 Madison Avenue, Valhalla, NY 10595 The competitive marketplace measures success by consumer purchase and repeat rate. This presenta- tion shows how the product developer and marketer can use consumer responses to create products that are more acceptable, less costly (in ingredient dollars), and more targeted to specific groups of consumers. The approaches use structured develop- ment of concepts to create positionings, segmenta- tion of consumers to find ready niches of consumers interested in the product, and systematic product development and optimization to create the actual products satisfying those niches of consumers. Applications and pitfalls of in vitro release and skin penetration studies Joel L. Zatz, Ph.D., Rutgers University, P.O. Box. 789, Piscataway, NJ 08855-0789 During product development, measurements of skin penetration in vitro provide one means of com- paring candidate formulations. The rationale for using excised human skin is that the principal skin barrier, the stratum corneum, is already dead and will therefore not suffer by removal from the live organism. Among the potential limitations of in vitro experiments are the loss of enzymatic activity and development of diffusional resistance within the aqueous skin layers. The seriousness of each of these problems, and strategies for dealing with them, de- pend largely on the chemistry of the permeant. Al- though excised human skin is often preferred for in vitro studies, a high degree of skin variability may cloud comparisons made among competing formu- lations. Selection of appropriate experimental con- trols helps to alleviate this problem. Under certain conditions, release from the vehicle may become