248 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The advantages and limitations in manufacturing and formulation of these visually different colored products will be discussed. In vivo testing of nail polish and the general ef- fects of shade families on their performance Greg Wanamaker, Chesebrough Ponds, Inc., 40 Merritt Blvd, Trumbull, CT 06611 The wear characteristics of nail polish formulas are a major concern, to nail polish manufacturers and marketers. Analytical test methods, which include the use of viscometers, glossometers, and pendulum hardness testers, are necessary tools for quality con- trol but are not totally indicative of acceptable per- formance to the consumer. In vivo testing, on the other hand, is the final step in evaluating wear characteristics of polish formulations and is increas- ingly important in supporting advertising and mar- keting claims. The use of descriptive analysis panels with com- puter-processed rating forms compensates for pan- elist biovariability and improves report time. The numerical results of this testing can easily be plotted to show how individual shades will perform within their product line and against competitors. Generalities about the overall characteristics can be inferred when analyzing pigment types and quan- tities in one-coat and two-coat systems. From laboratory to manufacturing--The po- tential benefits of monitoring the quality of lip- stick pigment dispersions Thomas W. Kahle, Noxell Corporation, 11050 York Road, Hunt Valley, MD 21030 Product development chemists are periodically faced with the task of shading and approving first- production batches of their newly developed for- mulae. On a day-to-day basis, Q.C. faces similar challenges with ongoing production. This discussion begins with a brief description of a typical lipstick production shading problem, its likely cause, and often overlooked solution. The conclusion provides the potential benefits of cost reductions, higher efficiency, and more uni- form master to batch-to-batch integrity. SCIENTIFIC SESSION G (Concurrent) GENERAL PAPERS Alkoxylated methyl glucoside quaternary: Con- ditioning agent for hair and skin Straut B. Polovsky, Ph.D., and Joseph P. Pav- lichko, Amerchol, P.O. Box 351, Edison, NJ 08817 Quaternaries affect important properties associated with hair conditioning such as improved wet and dry combing, feel, luster, and antistatic activity. A new class of quaternary ammonium compounds will be introduced based on alkoxylated methyl gluco- side chemistry. Alkoxylated methyl glucoside qua- ternary (AMGQ) is the newest addition to the highly functional family of methyl glucoside deriva- tives that are noted for their extreme mildness to skin and hair. AMGQ is prepared by functionalizing hydroxyl groups via the addition of a lipophilic quaternary center, thus forming a cationic molecule that is substantive to hair and skin. In addition, the re- sulting quaternary maintains the extreme mildness of the glucoside family, i.e., low irritation potential on skin and in eyes. It has a significant effect on physical properties such as surface tension. The hy- drophilic moiety of AMGQ renders it a powerful humectant. This material is versatile in its use and is compat- ible with many modern formulation ideas such as skin-conditioning creams and lotions, aerosol con- ditioning hair sprays, and styling mousses. It is useful in liquid soaps and conditioning sprays with sunscreens. This work will be presented together with data demonstrating its activity. Quantitative evaluation of hair set parameters Franz Frosch and Friedrich G. M. Vogel, BASF AG, 6700 Ludwigshafen, West Germany Set and hold of polymer-treated hair can be de- scribed by several parameters: elasticity, stiffness, humidity resistance, torsion resistance, etc. Only a few models such as the "curl retention" method, have found general acceptance and are used as screening tools to evaluate the performance of set- ting products on hair before a salon test is made. A new method is introduced which stimulates the effects of various setting products by stressing polymer-treated swatches with work loads. Varying the load or the frequency of stress, different infor- mation about the polymer/hair fiber interaction is obtained. In addition, further parameters, such as relative humidity, may be varied. The model can be utilized with simple laboratory equipment or can be extended to study the mechan- ical properties of polymer-treated fibers in detail. The method allows the comparison of polymers alone as well as of complete formulations of setting products and correlates well with salon parameters. This method presents a valuable tool to screen dif- ferent raw materials and formulations and can aid in the preselection of hair care polymers. Details and results of the novel method are discussed.

ABSTRACTS 249 Enhancement of DNA repair of UV damage in mouse and human skin by liposomes con- taining a DNA repair enzyme Daniel B. Yarosh, Applied Genetics, Inc., 205 Buffalo Avenue, Freeport, N.Y. ! 1520 Sunlight and ultraviolet light (UV) in particular have many deleterious effects on skin, including the induction of skin cancer. The DNA of epidermal cells is the target for an important part of this damage. After UV exposure little or nothing can be done at present to reverse the long-term effects. A new approach has been developed to repair DNA after sun exposure. A highly purified DNA repair enzyme, which initiates removal of specific DNA lesions produced by UV, was encapsulated in lipo- somes and delivered to UV-irradiated human epi- dermal keratinocytes in culture and to the skin of UV-irradiated hairless mice by topical application. In treated cells and animals, removal of damage was faster, DNA repair was enhanced, and the survival of cells after exposure was significantly increased compared to untreated or sham-treated controls. These results suggest that delivery of DNA repair enzymes to human skin may become a practical method to prevent sunlight damage even after UV exposure. New hydrogels--Basic technology and applica- tion Steve Greenberg, Ph.D., Lipo Chemicals, Inc., 207 19th Avenue, Paterson, NJ 07504 Synthetic hydrogels have been used in soft contact lenses and other related biomedical applications as well as in cosmetic and personal care products. In this paper we introduce a new family of patented synthetic hydrogels that are multi-block co- polymers derived from poly(acrylonitrile). These new hydrogels utilize strong physical interactions in maintaining their three-dimensional integrity rather than the covalent crosslinking on which other synthetic hydrogels depend. These new hydrogels are close analogues of natural hydrogels such as those found in the cornea and cartilage. They pos- sess superior physical and mechanical properties over other synthetic hydrogels. This paper focuses on the basic technology of this new type of hydrogel such as structure, pH, vis- cosity, and concentration relationships. It also dis- cusses applications of these new hydrogels to cos- metic formulations, including their use as primary emulsifiers in water-in-oil emulsions, as stabilizers for multi-phase emulsions, and as a source of unique and desirable tactile properties in gels.