RELATION OF HORMONES TO COSMETICS 217 -control does not seem clearly estab- lished. To complete a catalog of the changes and manifestations crf the advertising function, even for the human, would be wearisome and unnecessary. We are all too well aware of the wonderful changes that develop or take place in the female as she nears and enters a state of nubility. The lovely texture of the skin with its remarkable range of pigmen tary notes, varying from the vivid clear red of the lips framing the pearly and highly fluorescent teeth to the marble white of the neck. Bedecked here and there in appropriate places is melanotic shad- ing of various shades forming pleas- ant and intriguing contrast with the veiled reds and blues of the under- lying blood vessels, or the pale green of the bloodless skin. All subject to a reflectance imitated by no other material. All of this remarkable display, as well as the crowning epithelial extravagance of the var- iously pigmented hair, depends on the correct growth, development, maturation, and degeneration of epithelial cells, supported by an appropriately patterned and func- tioning blood supply. We can, more- over, be quite dogmatic that these changes are purposely devised for they do not occur in eunuchs no matter how healthy they may be otherwise. One phenomenon in particular seems more or less absent in such subjects, namely, certain odoriferous accompaniments of the advertising pattern, and whidh are partly derived from special scent glands, but nevertheless do not seem entirely confined t6 their activity, for other perfumes diminish, includ- ing the delicate sweet fragrance noted in the hair of young females not to be found in older people. The human male also shows many signs of advertising activity, ,although less of purely physical nature than his counterpart. Changes occur in the skin and var- ious hairy parts sprout into activity. Neither of these changes takes place in those gonadically inactive moreover, the smell of such persons has no particular advertising mean- ing. One of the most remarkable differences between the normal and the eunuchoid male is to be found in the retention by the latter of the childish type of skin, including its molding Some type of pituitary deficiencies seen at a distance too far for the fine network of the aging process to be remarked, retain a youthful appearance for remarkable periods. Moreover, when we turn to general biology for supporting evidence of these general facts we find a wealth of data to choose from. For example, the rapid and facile changes in the caliber of blood vessels, especially of the exposed parts, leading to advertising changes of peculiar charm, may be used to create a much more striking display in other forms, such as the brilliant reds and blues of the comb and wattles of Mr. Turkey strutting his stuff, or the rather blatant buttock coloring of certain monkeys. to name but two examples known definitely to be dependent on sex hormones.

218 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY These changes in the blood supply of certain tissues resulting from the activity of sex hormones has yet only been examined in a few spe- cialized areas. I have little doubt that this effect is really rather gen- eralized just as to the effect of histamine, which in small doses mimics the blushing areas, is really generalized. The claimed value,of sex hormone treatment for coronary spasm in the heart tends to support this view, and extends it to the internal vessels. While the question of a little more, or a little less blood to a part may appear of rather trivial impor- tance, we must recall that just this difference turns a colorless corpse with sharply edged contours and hard molding lines, to a body glow- ing with color and having a texture suggestive of warmth and softness. While I do not care to stress this point in the absence of adequate data, it is possible to conceive that that increased heat radiation, easily perceptible from an entirely per- missible distance, may also be a part of this advertising function. The continual attention this rather minor physical matter has attracted from writers of so-called love stories sug- gests it may have a biological mean- ing other than just an excess metab- olism. It is of course also depend- ent on the caliber of the blood ves- sels. When we consider the possibilities inherent in a skilled control of this important color advertising medi- um, one matter stands out rather sharply. We know that change in OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS advertising signs attracts more at- tention than the same sign under- going no change. In consequence most of our signs are occulting. The reason is of course that stimuli of fixed intensity become adapted to, whereas those of varying inten- sity do not, or not nearly as readily. The value of the blushing mecha- nism, as a bit of the advertising func- tion, then becomes quite obvious. Following this line of thought for a moment allows of two rather inter- esting conclusions. The first is that the use of pigments on areas normally of relatively fixed intensity such as the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, or whiskers, for we should not entirely neglect the male, is a reasonable and rational procedure. Nature herself some- times intensifies such areas with remarkable results. Moreover the careful use of shading around the eyes to enhance that caused by sex hormone activity again is a fairly obvious procedure, although one sometimes feels that the human should stay within her pattern and not stray to that, say, of the raccoon. However, when we consider the areas of coloring that depend for much of their charm on variability, like the cheeks, and in some delight- ful specimens including the neck downward as far as one is permitted freely to observe, the use of heavy pigmentary deposits of fixed re- flectance qualities does not seem sound advertising procedure. What is gained at first sight becomes lost in the insensitivity developing from a fixed stimulus. Indeed this fact