242 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS ments will undoubtedly take place in the application of spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods to essential oil analysis. Only when the analyst is absolutely satisfied of the authenticity of the sample under examination should he be inclined to pass an "abnormal" oil for submission to subjective tests. Oils from sources of supply of new geographical origin come into this category, as well as those produced by the employment of modern distillation units in place of "peasant" stills. Brazilian rosewood, sassafras, and dementholised mint oils may be cited as important newcomers to the essential oil markets in recent years, while the controversy over otto of rose in the years immediately before the War is an excellent example of the influence of equipment on the character- istics of an essential oil. Guenther, op. cit., Vol. V, p. 3, et seg., gives an ad- mirable survey of the otto of rose question. Subjective tests on the odour, and, where necessary, flavour, of the essen- tial oil then follow, comparison being made with standard samples kept under proper conditions, followed by trial formulation in which the new oil is incorporated in place of the previously accepted delivery. Standard samples should be kept in small well-filled amber glass bottles, preferably closed with glass stoppers, or alternatively tinfoil-wrapped corks, in a dark cupboard at a uniformly cool temperature. Under such conditions dete- rioration of sensitive oils, such as those from citrus fruits, is likely to be in- appreciable over many months. LIPSTICKS--THEIR FORMULATION, MANUFACTURE, AND ANALYSIS* By A. L. FISHBACH Oxzyn Company, H/est Trenton, N. ]. HF. RE A•F. WWO lipstick formulas--one a "creamy" and one a "high stain." The castor oil is used as the main vehicle for the color and as a partial solvent for the halogenated fluorescein termed "bromo acids." The isopropyl myristate acts to break the viscosity of the castor oil and allow better contact with the lip. The lanolin is used for its emollient properties and for a degree oftackiness and drag. The wax phase is balanced to utilize * Presented at the May 14, 1954, Meeting, New York City.

LIPSTICKS--FORMULATION, MANUFACTURE, AND ANALYSIS 243 High Creamy Stain 65 60 10 i6' 5 5 '•' 7 7 3 3 3 3 100 100 0.2 0.2 3 3 12 12 Castor oil Propylene glycol monoricinoleate Lanolin Isopropyl myristate Polyethylene glycol 400 Beeswax Candelilla wax Ozokerite Carnauba wax Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Halogenated fluorescein Certified lake colors the toughness of ozokerite, the high melting point of carnauba, the hardness and thinness of candelilla, together with the resiliency of beeswax. A certain degree of insolubility of the waxes in the oil is desirable, too, for a continuous system rather than that of complete mutual solubility. Com- plete solubility results in a mushy soft product due to mutual melting point depression effect. The high stain sticks employ a solvent--in this instance polyethylene glycol 400. The polyethylene glycol is not soluble in castor oil. Propy- lene glycol monoricinoleate acts as a mutual solvent or coupling agent. To vary the properties of these lipsticks, changes in the proportions of the in- gredients can be made. However, we are by no means limited to these materials. Partially hydrogenated vegetable oils can be used in securing creaminess. Completely hydrogenated castor oil, melting point 82øC., is an excellent stiflenet and raises the melting point of the product. Spermaceti, cetyl, and stearyl alcohols also find a place in formulations. Various derivatives of lanolin are also employed. Acetylated lanolin is more soluble in castor oil than is lanolin. Lanolin oils, which are solvent extractions of lanolin, eliminate much of the tack of the lanoiin. lsopropyl alcohol cross esterification products of lanolin are liquids and have less of the tack of lanolin. These products, however, must be considered as a physical mixture of unreacted lanolin, isopropyl ester of lanolin fatty acids, and free lanolin alcohols. Polyethylene glycol derivatives of lanolin are generally water dispersible and as such are not satisfactory. Products with a shorter chain length would in all probability be satisfactory. Physical mixtures of lanolin al- cohols or steroIs together with lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum marketed as absorption bases are being used successfully in lipsticks. Considera- tion must be given to their hydrocarbon content. Isopropyl myristate was mentioned as an agent to break the viscosity of the castor oil. There are a number of materials that fall into this cate-