248 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Figure 2.--Heat Test: A = I.ipstick, B -- Lip- stick Holder, and C -- Stationary Block. c k4 Figure &--Rupture Test: A = Lipstick, B = Lipstick Case, C = Stationary Block, E = Movable Block, D = Guide Rack, and M -- Micro Switch. readings are taken. The average is calculated and compared with stand- ard. High humidity tests are run by putting filled lipstick containers in a desiccator containing water. The desiccator is kept in a constant tempera- ture box at a temperature of 45øC. and examined periodically. The stick is examined for sweating and bleeding. The container is examined for discoloration or corrosion. RUPTURE TESTS Lipstick A is put in holder B and inserted into stationary block C and through movable block E. Block E rides on guide rods D. Weights are put at F, with a 30-second interval between each addition of weight. When stick ruptures, E moves on guide rods D to reach microswitch M, which lights up bulb. Weights plus weight of E is pressure required for rupture. Shade and intensity of stain are best judged on the skin by comparison with standard. Skin tone and undertone are also checked on the skin. Mass tone is judged by comparison with standard. Color content is determined by extraction with isopropyl ether. The ether solution is washed several times with 0.1 N aqueous sodium hydroxide. This will extract the bromo acids. The sodium hydroxide extraction is precipitated with 1 N hydrochloric acid. The reconverted bromo acids are washed several times with the hydrochloric acid. They are dried at 80øC. and weighed. The bromo acid content of any bromo acid lakes will also be extracted under these conditions. The residue from the ether ex- traction is washed several times with isopropyl ether. It is air dried in a hood and weighed to determine insoluble coloring matter. /lcknowledgment: is made with thanks to Harry Holtzman of the Ans- bacher Seigle Corp. for his assistance in the work on oil absorption of colors.

CALCULATION OF HLB VALUES OF NON-IONIC $URFACTANTS* By WILLIAM C. G•.I•IN ?it/as Powder Company, tt•ilmington, Del. IN THE PAST FIFTEEN or twenty years, there has been a tremendous growth in the field of surfactants. The term surfactants, as used here, includes emulsifiers, wetting agents, suspending agents, detergents, anti- foam compounds, and many others. Despite widespread interest in all types of surfactants, there has been no utilitarian method of classifying them. There has been division according to ionization, chemical type, and by popular (often ambiguous) nomenclature. The surfactant used in practically all formulations prior to the 1930's was soap. In the mid 1930's the supremacy of soap was challenged, first by sulfonates and sulfate-type ionic surfactants, and shortly thereafter by the non-ionics. In the past few years blends of non-ionic and anionic sur- factants have become increasingly popular. Throughout this period, cat- ionic surfactants have seen increased use but not to the same degree as that of either anionic or non-ionic products. The biggest difficulty with surfactants today, at least from the stand- point of those who have to choose them, is the staggering number that are available. Each manufacturer tries to provide one or more of his own products that is suitable for every need and therefore each has a tremendous selection. The large number of surfactants available, coupled with the fact that application problems are becoming increasingly difficult, is mak- ing the need for a suitable system of selection of surfactants more and more critical. Any emulsion chemist who works with surfactants for a few years soon recognizes that there is a correlation between their behavior and their solubility in water. For example, he will use a water-soluble surfactant or blend to make an oil-in-water emulsion. He will also use a water- soluble surfactant for solubilization and an almost completely water- soluble surfactant as a detergent. All the products of these applications may be said to exhibit aqueous characteristics that is, they dilute readily * Presented at the May 14, 1954, Meeting, New York City. 249