322 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS In passing, it is interesting to note that in India, the red dye of shellac is being investigated for possible use in lipstick. And the pure laccaic acid obtained from the dye complex is being tested in an antihemorrhagic fluid. A final note on quality and purity. In addition to those matters covered by F.D.A. regulations, refined wax-free bleached shellac is today much improved over that available two years ago. Table 5 describes such ']'ABI,I' 5,----SPECIFICATIONS O1' COMMERCIAL REFINED (W^x-F•v.•) Moisture As low as 2.0% Ash 0.1-0.3% Sulfates as Na•SO4 0.01-0.07% Chlorides as NaCl 0.08-0.15% Combined chlorine as C1 2.0-2.6% Acid value 85-95 Iodine value (maximum) 10 a shellac now available, with extremely low chlorides and snlfates, pale without being overbleached, and which can be dried down to 2 per cent moisture easily, by the use of low temperature conditioned air. From a bleached shellac of this type, low moisture esters can be prepared. It is evident that recent progress is lifting shellac chemistry out of the realm of obscurity. New methods and new materials are opening up new fields. A new look at shellac as a chemical rather than a commodily is stimulating formulatots in the cosmetic as well as in other fields. The concept of the shellolic-aleuritic combination as the heart of the shellac complex is leading to a better appreciation and understanding of its physical properties. Studies on chemical derivatives of shellac are certain to provide a whole new class of shellac-based chemicals. (Received June 1, 1961) REFERENCES (l) Weinbcrgcr, H., and Gardner, W. H., 5 t. Ind. Eng. ( hem., 30, 454 (1938). (2) ( idvani, B. S., and Kamath, N. R., London Shellac Research Bureats, 7•'ch,ica/ No. 1 (1944). (3) Verman, l.. C., Ibid., No. II (1937). (4) Verman, L. C., and Bhattacharya, R., Ibid., No..q (1935). (5) Bhattacharya, R., and Gidvani, B. S., [bid., No. I.• (1938). (6) Bhattacharya, R., and Heath, G. D., [bid., No. 16 (1938). (7) Rutzler, J. E., .It., 5 t. Ind. Eng. Chem., 50, 903 (1958). (8) Stivala, S.S., and Powers, W. J., Ibid., 50, 935 (1958). (9) Alter, H., and Sollet, W., [bid., 50, 922 (1958). (10) Verman, l.. C., London Shellac Research B•o'eau, 7•chnica/ Paper No. 3 (1936). (l 1) Verman, ] .. C., Ibid., No. • (1935). (12) Vetman, 1,. C., [bid., No. 10 (1936). (13) Cl:trke, G. I,., .% Ind. Eng. Chem., 18, 113] (1926). (14) Houwink, R., "Physikalische Eigenschaften ,nd b'einbau yon A/al•o'• und Ku,slharzen," Leipzig, Akad. Verlag (1934). (15) Yates, P., and Field, A., 5 t. •tm. Chem. Soc., 82, 5764 (1960). (16) Stork, G., and Clarke, F. H., Ibid., 77, 1072 (1955). (17) Stork, G., and Breslow, J., Ibid., 75, 329l (1953). (18) Yates, P., Unpublished reports (1959).

INSTRUMENTATION IN THE COSMETIC LABORATORY 32.t (19) Nagel, W., and Mertens, W., Bet., 69, 2050 (1936). (20) Boeseken, J., and Meulenhoff, J., Proc. Acad. Sci. Amsterdam, 27, 174 (1924). (21) "Shellac," private publication, Angel() Bros., Cossipore (Calcutta). (22) Bhattacharya, R., and Gidvani, B. S., I,ondon Shellac Research Bureau, Technical Paper No. 15 (1938). INSTRUMENTATION IN THE COSMETIC LABORATORY By G. M. LEt(m and A. P. KENT* Presented May 12, 1961, New York City A•:rHOUGI-t the spatula continues to be a useful instrument, more astute apparatus has become an essential part of the modern cosmetic laboratory. The term instrumentation in this instance is applied generi- cally to the spectral and chromatographic facilities which in less than twenty years have become basic tools of the industry. Many did not even exist twenty years ago. Instrumentation as applied to analysis, control, elucidation of structure, product development and cosmetic research is an essential adjunct to the laboratory. The wide variety of raw materials and the complexity of formulations typical of the cosmetic industry today make rapid, precise and specific means of analysis mandatory. Spectral and chromatographic instrumenta- tion fulfills this requirement in increasing variety and utilization is now, in many instances, routine. After much early work in paper and columnar chromatography, gas-liquid partition chromatography finds a wide range of application from the assay of raw materials to the determination of extremely low concentrations of a specific ingredient in a finished formula- tion. In many cases samples need not be altered, or only a minute amount may be necessary for analysis. For repetitive work enormous savings of time may be achieved, and in research instruments lead the way to more revealing methods and frequently to basic discoveries. The following examples will demonstrate the scope and versatility of these instrumental techniques. Stearic acid or most fatty acids or their triglycerides can be rapidly and accurately assayed by means of gas chromatography. The methyl ester is prepared, perhaps by the boron trifluoride method, and injected into the instrument. From the resulting chromatogram, the type and con- centration of the impurities can be determined in addition to the assay of the acid. Figure l shows a typical chromatogram of a stearic acid * Colgate. Palmolive Co., Jersey City 2, N.J.