40 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE tional oxidative hair color but that the color longevity effect was inferior to that of the oxidative hair color. The color brightness and color longevity effects of the "permanent" acid-type hair color were far better than those of conventional acid-type hair color despite the fact that the formulation of dye was the same as that of conventional acid-type hair color. The color longevity effect of the "permanent" acid-type hair color was slightly better than that of oxidative hair color. It is seen on Figure 6B that both the color brightness and color longevity effects of the conventional acid-type hair color was inferior to those of the conventional oxidative hair color. Both the color brightness and color longevity effects of the "permanent" acid-type hair color were improved to the same level as those of permanent (oxidative) hair color despite the fact that the formulation of dye was the same as that of conventional acid-type hair color. In Figure 7, color brightness and color longevity effects were tested by Caucasian brown hair sourced in East Europe. The test results (Figure 7) show that the "permanent" acid-type hair color has a preferable performance on human hair re­ gardless of race. The hair tresses dyed for 30 min were washed by conventional shampoo. The discolor­ ation by shampoo was evaluated by the radio of �E (Figure 8). The color change ratio of the "permanent" acid-type hair color was higher than that of the conventional acid­ type hair color and conventional oxidative hair color, indicating that the "permanent" � 0 :;:::::. � 0, C ·a, C co (.) 0 0 0 110 (A) Red fashion Shade 10ow� ♦- -♦ ♦ 90 �----. I - � l 80 ■ ----- 70 ■ 60 50 0 2 4 6 Times of wash 110 (B) Brown for gray coverage 100i\- '#- i--- 90 ' 0 :I.. :;:::::. � 0, C 80 ·a, C -� co (.) 0 70 0 0 60 ■----------- 50 0 2 4 6 Times of wash Figure 7. Color brightness and color longevity effect of (A) red fashion shade and (B) brown-for-gray coverage on Caucasian hair. The closed square (■), diamond ( ♦ ), and triangle ("-) represent the color­ changing ratio of "permanent" acid-type, conventional oxidative, and conventional acid-type hair color, respectively. The color changing ratio was evaluated by the following equation: Color changing ratio (%) = [LlEwashed hair} / [LlEdyed hair} x 100 where LlEdyed ha ir and LlEwashed hair represent LlE immediately after dyeing and washing, respectively. In (A) the color brightness effect, which is represented by LlEdyed hair, of novel acid-type, conventional oxidative, and conventional acid type is 14.67, 10.38, and 12.59, respectively. In (B), the color brightness effect, which is represented by LlEdyed hair, of novel acid-type, conventional oxidative, and conventional acid type is 14.66, 13.75, and 12.50, respectively.

0 - 0 +:: C) C C) C cu (.) 'I,... 0 0 (.) NOVEL ACID-TYPE HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY 41 105 95 85 75 0 10 20 30 Times of shampoo Figure 8. Shampoo resistance test of "permanent" acid-type hair color. The closed square (■), diamond ( ♦ ), and triangle ("-) represents the color-changing ratio of "permanent" acid-type, conventional oxidative, and conventional acid-type hair color, respectively. The color change ratio of novel acid hair color was better than not only that of conventional acid hair color but also conventional oxidative hair color. The color­ changing ratio was evaluated by the following equation: Color changing ratio ( % ) = [LlEwashed ha i..J / [LlEdyed ha ir} X 100 where LlEdyed hair and LlEwashcd hair represent LlE immediately after dyeing and washing, respectively. acid-type hair color can keep the dye firmly in the hair. By this method, the color longevity effect of the "permanent" acid-type hair color was verified against conventional shampoo as well as 2% SDS. VERIFICATION OF FORMATION OF DYE-METAL ION COMPLEX The data show the peak absorbance of acid red 52 (565 nm) and acid orange 7 (485 nm) of each sample. The elution of acid red 52 and acid orange 7 of conventional acid-type hair color had no dependence on the concentration of EDTA, but that of the "perma­ nent" acid-type hair color had dependence on the concentration of EDTA-2Na (Figure 9). This result indicates that the aluminum ion of the dye-metal complex formed a chelate with EDTA and the released dyes were extracted. FLUORESCENT X-RAY ANALYSIS OF THE STATE OF THE ALUMINUM ION OF DYE-METAL COMPLEX The degree of difference of photon energy (�e V) between the sample and Al 2 O 3 was investigated. The fluorescent X-ray spectra of Al-Hair, Al-Hair-Dye, and Al-Dye are shown in Table VII. Since the Al-K 13 of Al-Dye and Al-Hair was completely different, this difference was caused by the difference of bond energy between Al-Dye and Al-Hair.