N(E) Min: 52 Max: 37263 0(1s) 602 541.8 481.6 HAIR SURF ACE CHEMISTRY 71 C(1s) S(2s) S(2p) 421.4 361.2 301 240.8 180.6 120.4 60.2 -4.57764e-005 Binding Energy (eV) Figure 3. Survey scan of bleached hair. Table II Surface Composition Before and After Bleaching Treatment (3% hydrogen peroxide, at pH 9 for 45 minutes) Element Blank Bleached C 76.8 67.5 N 6.8 10.8 0 12.4 18.3 s 2.4 2.8 Low levels of Si and Ca commonly observed not included in the table. factant, 45 min. procedure show a generally more uniform, cleaner, and sharply defined surface structure (Figure 7). The raggedness of the cuticle edges is not as extreme, and the random debris observed on the blank hair is gone. The overall general appearance of the cuticle structure is clearer in keeping with the removal of the overlayer. CONDITIONER-TREATED HAIR The conditioner treated hair showed several dramatic changes in surface compos1t10n relative to the bleached surface. First was the great increase in the amount of Si present on the surface due to the dimenthicone in the formulation. The amount of nitrogen detected at the surface decreased significantly, while the surface oxygen content in­ creased (Figure 8). The comparison of surface compositions from bleached to treated is summarized in Table III.

72 - C Q) � Q) Q. 0 -E ( Q) u C'!I 't: ::::, CJ) J!! C ::::, 0 0 C � u Cl) 'ii 0 .c D.. "D Cl) C'I E 0 z 78 76 74 72 70 68 66 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE -+---- 3% Peroxide, Neutral pH --- 3% Peroxide, pH=9 -.--- 3% Peroxide, surfactant, pH=9 �------------------------------. � 64 --1------.-----.----,-------,-------r------,-----,------,-----,--- 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 Bleaching time, min. Figure 4. Total surface carbon content in response to various bleaching treatments. I---+- Blank ----3% Peroxide, Surfactant, pH=9, 45 min. I 292 290 288 286 284 Binding Energy, eV Figure 5. Overlay of C(ls) spectra from blank and bleached hair. ,P 282 • 1 1 rj: 280 The amount of carbon detected at the surface decreases on a percentage basis due to the great increase in the amount of Si present. The chemical states of the carbon present are seen to change relative to the bleached surface due to the adsorption of the dimethicone