58 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE skin is usually fixed by tight cross - linkings. So, we think hemoglobin oxygen saturation were observed at the site of that one of the important approaches to the anti - wrinkle dark eye circles. We also observed that the blood flow rate skin care is the treatment ofphotodamaged skin in the early was slow at dark eye circles in comparison with cheek. stage. However, it is difficult for most cosmetic users to From these results, blood flow stagnation seems to be one perceive their dermal UV damage. In the present study, we of the factors that could induce dark eye circles. In addition, investigated the possibilities of two non - invasive the increase of melanin at dark eye circles was also measurements of skin mechanical properties as convenient observed in older subjects. It was considered that not only biomarkers of degeneration of the extracellul.-i- matrix. The congestion but also an increase of melanin content in the condition of the three - dimensional structures of dermal skin could induce dark eye circles. On the basis of these collagen fibers, which depends on the degree of UV results, we developed anti - dark eye circle cosmetics that damage, correlated with a mechanical parameter measured can improve blood circulation, reduce melanin content and by the Resiliometer we developed. Accumulation of maintain high moisture retention in the skin. After three denatured elastic fibers (elastosis) induced by photoaging weeks' usage of this product, it was confirmed that dark eye correlated with certain mechanical parameters measured by circles were improved, judging from the result of non - the Cutometer. These findings suggest that dermal invasive instrumental measurements. structural changes associated with photoaging can be assessed non - invasively using these devices. Dermatological Study on Dark Eye Circles and Their Treatment with Newly Developed Cosmetics Yuji Masuda, Motoji Takahashi, Atsuko Satou, Motohiro Yanai, Toyonobu Yamashita, Tomio Iikura, Nobuhiko Ochiai, Katsuki Ogawa, Kazuhiko Sayama SHISEIDO Research Center, 2-2-1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki - ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan Blood flow stagnation is said to be an important factor for the incidence of dark eye circles, but there are few reports which have studied dark eye circles and the relationship to blood flow. We have examined dark eye circles dermatologically using a non - invasive method and made clear the factor related to it. We have also studied the effect of newly developed cosmetics on improvement of dark eye circles. Melanin and hemoglobin content, hemoglobin oxygen saturation and blood flow rate were measured to compare dark eye circles with a normal control. An Repair of Dry Skin by Minerals in Seawater: OLIGOMARINE® as a Skin Moisturizer Masahiko Ooe, Hidenobu Okumura, Tatsuo Yamamura, Hiroshi Matsunaka, Tsuneo Morioka Kobe Research Laboratories, Noevir Co. Ltd., Science Division, Nov Co. Ltd., 6-13-1, Minatojima Naka - machi, Chuo - ku, Kobe 650-8521, Japan OLIGOMARINE® is a complex of minerals obtained from seawater. In a cell culture system, OLIGOMARINE® stimulated not only the cell activation but also the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts. In addition, OLIGOMARINE® might have accelerated the keratinization since the expression of suprabasal markers, such as involucrin and transglutaminase, were promoted in cultured normal human keratinocytes. Furthermore, the water - holding properties and permeability barrier function of the stratum comeum were enhanced by using lotion containing OLIGOMARINE®. These results suggested that OLIGOMARINE® would be useful as a humectant for the increased amount of hemoglobin and decreased prevention or improvement of dry skin.

J. Cosmet. Sci.J 56, 59-61 CTanuary/February 2005) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 5, 2004* Use of the Synthetic Superoxide Dismutase/Catalase levels on non-irradiated skin were reduced in a dose­ Mimetic Euk-134 to Compensate for Seasonal Antioxidant dependent fashion. In contrast to alpha-tocopherol, EUK­ Deficiency by Reducing Pre-Existing Lipid Peroxides at the 134 even reduced the level of lipid peroxides at the surface Human Skin Surface of UV A-exposed skin when it was applied after irradiation. L. Declercq 1 , I. Sente 1 , L. Hellemans 1 , H Corstjens 1 , D. Maes2 1 Biological Research Department Europe, Estee Lauder BCC, Oevel, Belgium 2 Biological Research Department Estee Lauder Companies, Melville, NY, USA We confirmed that this salen-manganese complex was able to reduce squalene hydroperoxide levels in vitro, suggesting peroxidase-like activity towards organic peroxides. These data support the concept that the synthetic SOD/catalase mimetic EUK-134 might be able to compensate for seasonal deficiencies in antioxidant defense capacity at the skin surface, thereby contributing to an optimal protection of the skin against the accumulation of The generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in UV- oxidative damage. exposed skin is believed to contribute to the photoaging process. The stratum corneum (SC) contains a variety of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to protect against various environmental sources of free radicals. We have previously shown a seasonal variation in SC catalase activity with strong deactivation in sun-exposed skin in the summer, while SC superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity remained intact in those conditions. This potentially leads to the local overproduction of H202• The oxidized lipid squalene hydroperoxide accumulates at the surface of sun­ exposed skin in the summer and upon exposure to UV A doses as low as 0.1 J/cm2 and adequate protection against excessive lipid peroxidation at times of UV exposure should be aimed for. We have been using the induction of lipid hydroperoxides at the skin surface by a single dose of UV A ( 1 J/cm2) as a model system to evaluate the protective effect of antioxidants in vivo. Topical treatment with the synthetic SOD/catalase mimetic EUK-134 1 hour before UV A exposure reduced the level of lipid peroxides at the surface of UV A-exposed skin but also baseline peroxide Influence of Cleansing on Stratum Corneum Tryptic Enzyme (SCTE) in Human Skin AG. Schepky, U. Holtzmann, R. Siegner, S. Zirpins, R. Schmucker, H. Wenck, K.P. Wittern, and S.S. Biel R&D BeiersdorfAG, Unnastrasse 48, D-20245 Hamburg Desquamation in human skin is a well-balanced process of de novo production of corneocytes and their shedding from the skin surface. The proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is an important step in the final desquamation process. In the degradation of these adhesion molecules, the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) plays a key role. In initial studies with extracts of porcine epidermis, SCTE was shown to be inactivated by low concentrations of sodium lauryl ether sulphate. These in vitro findings were supported by in situ results obtained by measuring the * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 59