56 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE researchers who proposed the contrary view mainly used hair fibers (14). When dealing with the photosensitivity of melanin, we should take notice of the state of melanin granules. REFERENCES (1) T. Takahashi and K. Nakamura, A study of the photolightening mechanism of blond hair with visible and ultraviolet light,]. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 291-305 (2004). (2) E. Nagashima, J. Kawase, and G. Imokawa, Color of hair and melanin, 25 th SCCJ Scientific Meeting, Tokyo, November 9, 1988. (3) S. Ratnapandian, S. B. Warner, and Y. K. Karnath, Photodegradation of human hair, J. Cosmet. Sci., 49, 309-320 (1998). (4) S. Kanetaka, K. Tomizawa, H. Iyo, and Y. Nakamura, The effects of UV radiation on human hair concerning physical properties and fine structure of protein,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 27, 424--431 (1993). (5) E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and S. Hilterhaus-bong, Photochemical alterations in human hair. I. Artificial irradiation and investigation of hair proteins,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 85-99 (1995). (6) E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and H. Hocker, Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part II: Analysis of melanin,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 181-190 (1995). (7) E. Hoting and M. Zimmermann, Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part III: Investigations of internal lipids,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 201-211 (1996). (8) C. R. Borges, J. C. Roberts, D. G. Winkins, and D. E. Rollins, Relationship of melanin degradation products to actual melanin content: Application to human hair, Analyt. Biochem., 290, 116-125 (2001). (9) S. Ito and K. Fujita, Microanalysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin in hair and melanomas by chemical degradation and liquid chromatography, Analyt. Biochem., 144, 527-536 (1985). (10) S. B. Ruetsch, B. Yang, and Y. K. Karnath, Role of melanin and artificial hair color in preventing photo-oxidative damage to hair, JFSCC Mag., 7, 127-135 (2004). (11) M. R. Chedekel, P. W. Post, R. M. Deibel, and M. Kalus, Photochem. Photobiol., 26, 651-653 (1977). (12) I. A. Menon, S. Persad, N. S. Ranadive, and H.F. Haberman, Cancer Res., 43, 3165-3169 (1983). (13) S. Persad, I. A. Menon, and H.F. Haberman, Photochem. Photobiol., 37, 63-68 (1983). (14) L. J. Wolfram and L. Albrecht, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 82, 179-191 (1987). ( 15) H. Zahn, S. Hilterhaus, and A. Stri.iBmann, Bleaching and permanent waving aspects of hair research, ]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 159-175 (1986). (16) T. Kobori and W. Montagna, Eds., Medicine of Hair (Bunkodo, Tokyo, 1987).

J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 57-58 Qanuary/February 2005) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 38, No. 3, 2004* Polyelectrolyte · Micelle Coaceivation - Effect of that both the structure and the degree of substitution of Coacervate on the Properties of Shampoo- Yoshiko Hiwatari , Katsunori Yoshida , Takahiro Akutsu , Momo Yabu , Shigeru Iwai cationic polymer drastically changed the condition of coaceivation. Moreover, the cationic polymers showed remarkable effect on the rheological properties and the adhesive behavior of the coaceivate on the damaged hair. These results implied that we could control the usage Material Science Research Center, Basic Research texture of shampoo by choosing proper cationic polymers Division , Haircare Product Development Center, Product to control coacervation. Development Division , SHISEIDO Research Center (Shin · Yokohama ) 2 - 2 - 1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki · ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan A typical formula for shampoo containing cationic polymers and anionic/ amphoteric surfactants exhibits liquid-liquid phase separation under certain conditions when the shampoo is diluted with water upon the actual use in bathroom The lower dense phase is considered to be an insoluble complex formed with the cationic polymer and mixed surfactants. Generally, this associative liquid-liquid phase separation is called "coacervation" and the phase of complex is called "coaceivate." Although it is well known that the usage texture of shampoo is influenced by coaceivate, there are only a few reports about their relationship. In this work, we studied the properties of coaceivate and its effect on the usage texture of shampoo, particularly focusing on the effect of the cationic polymer structure. We prepared five different model shampoos that contain various cationic polymers, and studied the effect of the characteristics of the polymers on the condition of the complex formations, the amount of coacervate, the rheological properties and the adhesive behavior of coaceivate on the surface of damaged hair. It was found Non· Invasive Methods for Assessment of Dermal UV Damage Ai Oba, Takamasa Gorni, Yasutomo Nishimori, Chris Graves, Anthony Pearse, Chris Edwards Beauty Science R&D Department, Cutaneous Drug Research Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., University of Wales College of Medicine, Royal Gwent Hospital, Cardiff Biometrics, Ltd., 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa · ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan 560, Kashio · cho, Totsuka · ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan, Heath Park, Cardiff CF14 4XN, UK Cardiff Road, Newport, Gwent, Wales NP20 2UB, UK, 92 Tewkesbury Street, Cathays, Cardiff CF24 4QT, UK Repeated exposure to UV radiation can induce cutaneous damage leading to permanent structural degeneration of the dermal extracellular matrix and formation of visible wrinkles. It is not so easy to efface severely UV· damaged skin, because the degenerated abnormal structure of that * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 57