60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE release of fluorescent dyes coupled to trypsin-specific patients applying cleansing gel, facial tonic and creme gel. substrates incubated on human skin cross-sections. For the first time we were able to show a significant Moreover, in further studies, it could be demonstrated that the SCTE activity in the human horny layer decreases after in vivo application of cleansing products containing sodium lauryl ether sulphate. After repeated washing of human volunteers with tap water, standard market cleansing product (sodium lauryl ether sulphate/ betaine system) or a new improved cleansing product (sodium lauryl ether sulphate/ betaine/ disodium cocoyl glutamate system), the specific SCTE activity was determined in extracts from uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. It could be shown that after application of the new formula the remaining SCTE activity was significantly higher than after use of the standard market formula. This ex vivo approach has proven to be very helpful for measuring surfactant effects on human skin enzymes. {Jsing this assay, we developed an improved shower gel formula, which leads to a significantly higher skin enzyme activity after application, compared to a standard market formula. In Vivo Assessment of the Efficacy of an Innovative Face Care System in Subjects with Mild Acne Vulgaris U. Scherdin 1 , S. Presto 1 , F. Rippke 1 , J. Nielsen 1 , M. Strassner1, A lmadojemun1, E. Gartner1, A Herpens1, H. C. Korting 2 , S. Bielfeldt3 1 Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany 2 Ludwig Maximilians University, Frauenlobstr. 9-11, 80337 Munich, Germany 1 BioSkin GmbH, Hamburg, Germany present address: proDERM, lndustriestr. 1, 22869 Schenefeld, Germany improvement concerning the quality of life after using a new face care line. Especially adults with mild forms of acne may benefit from this effective skin care regimen. Topical Niacinamide Reduces Yellowing, Wrinkling, Red Blotchiness, and Hyperpigmented Spots in Aging Facial Skin Donald L. Bissett, Kukizo Miyamoto, Peiwen Sun, Jim Li, and Cynthia A Berge Previous clinical testing of topical niacinamide (vitamin B3) has revealed a broad array of improvements in the appearance of aging facial skin. The study reported here was done to confirm some of those previous observations and to evaluate additional end points such as skin anti­ yellowing. Caucasian female subjects (n = 50, ages 40-60) participated in a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product vs. the same moisturizer product containing 5% niacinamide. Niacinamide was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvements vs. control in end points evaluated previously: fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, and red blotchiness. In addition, skin yellowing (sallowness) vs. control was significantly improved. The mechanism by which this array of benefits is achieved with niacinamide is discussed. A Multi-Sample Design for Assessing the Comedolytic The purpose of our studies was to verify efficacy and skin Activity of Topical Products compatibility of a medical face care system containing 2% lactic acid (LA) as active ingredient in a specially designed H. Knaggsa, H. Santanastasioa, J. Bowman\ A Pa gn onib vehicle (Follicle Targeting System) in adult subjects with mild acne vulgaris. The 1 rt study ( 46 patients) demonstrated a Skin Research Department, Unilever Research, Edgewater superiority of 2 % LA in comparison to 2 % salicylic acid bHill Top Research, Milltown, NJ. with respect to number of comedones and inflammatory lesions. The second study evaluated 90 patients receiving Background: Facial comedolytic studies allow testing of a distinct combinations of face care products (Eucerinll maximum of 2 products. The upper back provides a larger Impure Skin), i. e. cleansing gel, facial tonic (2 % LA) and area with a more uniform distribution of microcomedones cream-gel (2 % LA). All treatments were performed twice for comedolytic studies. Objective: To design a multi- daily over a 12 weeks period. Lesion counts, cyanoacrylate biopsies and determination of quality of life by questionnaires were performed at different timepoints. A reduction of comedones by 56 % corresponding to a 46% increase of quality of life index was demonstrated in sample method for assessing comedolytic activity of topical products on the back. The effect of season on product discrimination was also explored. Methods: Three cleansing formulations, a negative water control and 0.025% Retin-All cream (positive control) were tested.

ABSTRACTS 61 Seven subjects were recruited in summer, nine in fall. Products were applied for 8 weeks, comedolysis was assessed by visually evaluating cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies taken at baseline and post-treatment. Results: In all data sets (summer, fall and combined), sites treated with Retin-A 111 had a significantly lower number of microcomedones as compared to the negative water control. In addition, cleansers B and D showed a significant reduction from baseline in the fall and combined (summer and fall) data, but not in summer data alone indicating different responses to treatment during the year. Conclusions: The design was sensitive enough to detect differences between cleansing formulations under normal washing conditions. Reduced sensitivity observed during summer suggests hot humid conditions may decrease the comedolytic performance of topical products.