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]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 59-69 Qanuary/February 2008) Biological activities of selected peptides: Skin penetration ability of copper complexes with peptides LENAMAZUROWSKA and MIROSLAW MOJSKI, Warsaw University of Technology, Faculty of Chemistry, Noakowskiego 3, 01-664 Warsaw, Poland. Accepted for publication August 15, 2007. Synopsis This study concerning the permeability through skin barriers of copper complexes with peptides is an important part of the research on their biological activity. The transport of copper complexes through the skin is essential in treatment of dermatological dysfunctions connected to the deficiency of these elements in the skin. During the last several years, a special interest in transepidermal copper delivery has been observed. This is the reason why copper compounds have been used as active compounds in care cosmetics. Yet, the transport process of copper complexes with tripeptides, glycyl-histidyl-lysine GHK, or )'-glutamyl­ cysteinyl-glycine GSH through the stratum corneum has received very little attention in the literature so far. The penetration ability of GHK-Cu and GSH-Cu through the stratum corneum and the influence of the complexes with tripeptide on the copper ion transport process is the key factor in their cosmetic and pharmaceutical activity. The in vitro penetration process was studied in the model system, a Franz diffusion cell with a liposome membrane, where liquid crystalline systems of physicochemical properties similar to the ones of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum were used as a standard model of a skin barrier. The results obtained demonstrated that copper complexes permeate through the membranes modeling the horny lipid layer and showed the influence of peptides on the dynamics of copper ion diffusion. INTRODUCTION The existence of metal ions is essential for all living organisms because they are con­ stituents of a large group of enzymes responsible for different physiological processes. Thus, they determine the proper functioning of the whole body, including the skin tissue. One of these essential metals is copper, which, according to its antiradical activity, the potential of regulating the melanogenesis process, and the synthesis of collagen, elastine, and GAGs (1,2), is widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. Despite the fact that copper is one of the most important metals for normal skin activity and growth, not all of the copper compounds, because of their toxicity, may be used as Address all correspondence to Lena Mazurowska. 59