100 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Method: European brown hair, from International Hair Importer, was pre-washed with a nonionic surfactant then treated with testing formulation. Artificial skin (Vitro-Skin from IMS., CT) was pre-wet and placed on a Buchner funnel. The treated hair was placed on the skin and rinsed under controlled conditions. After rinsing, the hair and skin were dried. The treated hair and skin were extracted separately with hydrochloric acid under controlled conditions. The total amount of ZPT was determined Zinc ion by determined by AAS. Result & Discussion: The first experiment is to test the ZPT deposition efficacy of the current commercial antidandruff shampoo onto hair and skin. Both products contain 1 % ZPT and different cationic polymers. In Table I, the result shows that ZPT is deposited onto both hair and skin. Product A deposits more total amount of ZPT onto skin than hair. However, Product B shows the reverse trend. As both products contains same amount of ZPT but different cationic polymer, it indicates that the parameters, such as concentration and type of polymer can affect the ZPT deposition . T bl I ZPT d a e : ti epos1tion rom 0-fti 1 erent C ommerc1a ti-dandruff . I Shampoo Product A ProductB ZPT/Cationic Polymer A ZPT/Cationic Polvmer B Hair 15 22 Skin 25 17 Note: The result is based on the average of triplicate samples and expressed as ug ZP per gm substrate. The second experiment is to investigate the ZPT concentration and polymer effect. In Table II, the formulation without cationic polymer clearly shows that the ZPT concentration effect. The higher ZPT concentration gives higher ZPT deposition onto hair and skin. In addition, cationic polymer is shown to enhance the ZPT deposition. The molecular structure of the cationic polymer, such as molecular weight also has impact on the ZPT deposition. Table Il: ZPT deposition onto Hair and Skin from Formulation with Different Cationic p I otymer No Polymer PQ-10 (HID PQ-10 (LID l¾ZPT 2%ZPT J¾ZPT l¾ZPT l¾ZPT Hair 16 58 71 22 34 Skin 17 67 73 27 33 Note: 1) Result is based on the average of triplicate samples and expressed as ug ZPT per gm substrate 2) PQ-10 (HH) means high molecular weight and high cationic charge and PQ-10 (LH) means low molecular weight and high cationic charge Conclusion: A new simple, fast technique is developed to monitor the ZPT deposition onto both hair and skin that helps to speed product development. It demonstrates ZPT concentration and the molecular structure of cationic polymer affects the ZPT deposition. Further experiments will be carried out to investigate the impact of molecular structure of cationic polymer on ZPT deposition.
2007 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING A NOVEL APPROACH TO DELIVER HIGHER ORDER BENEFITS TO PERSONAL CLEANSING APPLICATIONS By USING HVDROXVPROPVL METHVLCELLULOSE 101 Edward DiAntonio 1 , Xiaodong Zhang1, Ph.D., Jerry Conklin2 , Wing Li1 and Tatiana Drovetskaya1 1 The Dow Chemical Company, 171 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 2 The Dow Chemical Company, 1691 N. Swede Road, Midland, Ml 48674 Objective: In today's personal cleansing market, providing higher order benefits such as mildness, improved fragrance, and better deposition of actives is a challenge for consumer product companies. Most hair and skin cleansing products contain 15-20% surfactant. It is generally accepted that cleansing only requires 5-7% surfactant. The additional surfactant is used to build formulation viscosity and generate desirable lather properties. However, this additional surfactant can be harsh to skin and hair, causing moisturization reduction and even damage. Additional surfactant will also inhibit deposition of beneficial agents. Simply reducing the surfactant level in a personal cleansing formulation will usually result in a dramatic drop in formulation viscosity and unacceptable product rheology. Foam volume will also suffer. Without good flash foaming and creamy lather, the formulation will not be aesthetically pleasing to the final user. Through the addition of 1-2% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) it is possible to significantly reduce from 30% to 60% of the total surfactant normally used in cleansing formulations yet still maintain acceptable viscosity and lather properties (flash foaming, volume, creaminess and density). Using the patent-pending low-surfactant­ high-HPMC technology, the formulator is able to provide unique properties such as improved mildness, improved perfume performance, improved color fading performance, better conditioning properties and increased deposition of active ingredients. Materials and Methods: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) supplied by Amerchol Corporation (Bound Brook, NJ) was used in this study: (2% solution viscosity of 4000 cps, hydroxypropyl molar substitution of 0.23, methoxyl molar substitution of 1.9). Two surfactants supplied by Cognis were used in this study: Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES-2 - 26% solids) and Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB - 35% solids). A standard personal care fragrance (White Tea Mod 4 Fragrance, 02F/3156) from Fragrance Resources was used. Viscosity was measured using a Brookfield DV-11+ Programmable viscometer fitted with a small volume adapter. Perfume headspace and deposition were tested using gas chromatography. Results: Basic Performance A body wash formulation with typical surfactant level (15%) was prepared and tested. A SLES-2/CAPB ratio of 11 :4 was used. This formulation had acceptable rheology (4,000 cps) and good foam volume (30.6 ml). When the surfactant level was reduced from 15% to 7.5%, the viscosity was reduced to only 200 cps, which is not acceptable for personal cleansing applications. Foam volume was also noticeably lower than that of the control formulation due to lower surfactant level used in the system. When 1 % HPMC was incorporated into the low surfactant system (7.5% surfactant), a significant improvement in formul�tion viscosity was observed. In fact, the viscosity of the low-surfactant-high-HPMC formulation was 11,700 cps,
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