J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 77-78 Qanuary/February 2008) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 10, No. 3, 2007* Evidence for the Existence of a Body-Brain Connection for Skin Moisturization Johann W. Wiechers 1 .4, Anthony V. Rawlings 2, and Wei G. Hansen 3 1 Applied Research, Uniqema, P.O. Box 2, 2800 AA Gouda, The Netherlands 2 A VR Consulting, 26 Shavington Way, Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 8FH, United Kingdom 3 Corporate Analytical Development, Uniqema, P.O. Box 2, 2800 AA Gouda, The Netherlands 4 Current address: JW Solutions, Gasthuispolderweg 30, 2807 LL Gouda, The Netherlands :Maintenance of the right water levels in the skin is of crucial importance to maintain healthy, young-looking skin. Moisturizing products have therefore aimed to influence the constitutive levels of natural moisturizer factor (NMF) and/or the formation of the skin lipid banier. In humans, keratinocyte differentiation is influenced by sex hormones, in particular positively by estrogen and negatively by testosterone. It has been noted that postmenopausal women experience a decline in estrogen levels and a concomitant drop in skin moisturiz.ation. In our previous near-infrared reflectance (NIR) spectroscopy work on human skin, we noted that skin moisturization was influenced by gender, age, psychological stress and lifestyle habits such as alcohol consumption and smoking. Many of these also affect the level of sex hormones. We therefore re-evaluated NIR spectra from which we had already assessed the levels of skin moisturization in human volunteers to determine their levels of estrogen and testosterone non-invasively. We subsequently built mathematical models to link skin moisture content to the levels of these sex hormones. In this way, we were able to establish the importance of sex hormones in skin moisturization. In men, skin moisturization levels are linked to their estrogen levels, whereas in females, skin moisturimtion levels are linked to both estrogen and testosterone concentrations. From the medical literature, it is known that smoking is associated with increased testosterone and reduced estrogen levels, which suggests that people that smoke are characterized by less hydrated skin as well as by increased testosterone levels. On the other hand, pregnant females that have significantly elevated estrogen to progesterone ratios, i.e. their increase in estrogen level exceeds their increase in testosterone levels, also often remark that their skin is well hydrated, confirming the link between sex hormone levels and skin moisturization. For them, we found a good correlation coefficient for skin moisturii.ation levels and their estrogen to testosterone ratio. This work does not, however, answer question of a cause-and-effect relationship between the two. Increased levels of estrogen can either directly increase skin moisture levels or do so via a positive effect on skin barrier formation. It does, however, reveal once again the existence of a connection between our body (the skin) and our brain. Synthesis of sex hormones is regulated via the pituitary gland in our brain and it can therefore be argued that skin moisturiz.ation is directly or indirectly regulated via our brain. As many other factors like smoking and alcohol consumption actually influence estrogen levels in our blood, the influence of our brain on maintaining a skin moisture homeostasis may actually be much more pronounced than hitherto assumed. A poster of this work was presented at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, Osaka, Japan Revolutionary Trends in the Advancement and Integration of Cosmetic Science: Combinatorial Formulation Robert Y. Lochhead and Lisa R Huisinga The Institute for Formulation Science, The University of Southern Mississippi, 118 College Drive # 10076, Hattiesburg, MS 39401, USA The creation of modern cosmetic products is underpinned by an enormous and diversified array of sophisticated science, regulatory requirements and commercial knowledge. The marketplace is demanding an increasing rate of innovation * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 77

78 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE that is being accelerated by crowded intellectual property portfolios and constraining regulations. Fonnulators of complex mixtures have long known that the characteristics of their final formulation and the position of" eq uilibrium" often depends critically u po n the order of addition of ingredients and the precise processing conditions under which the formulation was made. The large variety of possible outcomes derive from the many eigenstates that are available to each composition of a complex mixture due to the fact that the bonds between the component molecules are weak ph ys ical bonds and therefore a po tential multitude of nanostructures can be formed. Conventional formulation is severely limited by the number of compositions that can be investigated in a reasonable time. Paper presented as a keynote lecture at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, Osaka, Japan Design and Development of an Innovative Hybrid Powder Based on a Computer Simulation and Its Application to Foundation Makeup Products Katsuki Ogawa, Katsuhiko Yagi, Hideo Hata, Y oshimasa Miura, Koichi Nakamura, Sadaki Takata, and Kazumi Fujima• Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku Yokohama-shi, Japan, 224-8558 •Department of Electrical and Electronic Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Yamanashi University, 4-3-11 Takeda, Kofu-shi, Japan, 400-8511 An innovative hybrid powder prepared using computer simulation allowed development of a new foundation having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/desi gn of the po wder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conducted on the optical characteristics of a baby's delicate skin, which is the envy of many women. To obtain the optimal optical characteristics, the finite differential time domain (FDTD) method for solving Maxwell's differential eq uation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For synthesis of the hybrid po wder based on the optical model, a proprietary shape regulation coating technology was used in which flaky substrates were coated with microspherical forms of barium sulfate crystals. The hybrid powder developed exhibited optical characteristics that showed a significant diffusion characteristic in the visible light region. The foundation containing this po wder could conceal pores, sma11 wrinkles, freckles, and age spots and owing to its microscopic reflection characteristics provided a fine, smooth texture that has never before been available with a conventional foundation. Part of this study was presented at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, Osaka, Japan StabilizJltion and Release Profile of Retinol and Tocopherol with Microcapsules Based on Chitosan Josep-Lluis Viladot, Yolanda Gomez, Juan-Antonio Asensio, Antonio Hernandez, Maria de Moragas, Silvia Martinez, Salvatore Gargano Cognis Iberia, S.A.U., Poligon Industrial Sant Vicen� s/n, E- 08755 Castellbisbal (Barcelona), Spain The incorporation of unstable cosmetic actives such as retinol into fonnulations requires methods of stabilization to ensure their long-term activity and efficacy. A delivery system entrapping lipophitic vitamins such as retinol and tocopherol based on chitosan coacervation with negative po lymers is described in this paper. The microcapsules appear to be spherical with a narrow particle size distribution, not aggregated, and with a homogeneous surface. Microencapsulation with such a s ys tem prolongs the active's life in skin care 0/W formulations by at least one order of magnitude in the tested formulas. Furthermore, the biodegradation profile of this delivery system is consistent with a sustained release profile in human epidermis. A preliminary version of this work was presented in the XXXV Jornadas del Comite Espanol de la Detergencia, Barcelona (Spain), 2005 [1]