102 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE an even higher viscosity than the full-surfactant control formulation. HPMC was also able to boost the foaming to a level that was actually higher than both the full-surfactant control formulation and the low surfactant formulation. This study clearly demonstrated that with the proper combination of surfactant and HPMC, a low-surfactant-high-HPMC formulation with good foam performance and acceptable viscosity can be achieved. Higher Order Benefits Perfume performance is one of the most critical properties of personal cleansing products. Specifically, two perfume parameters are most relevant: perfume headspace and perfume deposition. As shown by GC analysis, the perfume headspace of the low-surfactant-high­ HPMC system was significantly higher than the full-surfactant system. In fact, the low­ surfactant-high-HPMC system with only 0.75% perfume provided higher headspace than the full-surfactant system containing 25% more perfume. Similarly, perfume deposited on Vitro­ skin after treating with the low-surfactant-high-HPMC system was significantly higher than the full-surfactant system that contained 25% more perfume. (see Figure 1) Figure 1. Perfume headspace and deposition study for Low-surfactant-high-HPMC systems. Perfume Head Space perfume 1 deposition (ppm) 1 Control Low-surfactant- Low-surfactant- 1 % perfume high-HPMC high-HPMC 1% perfume 0.75% perfume Control Low-surfactant- Low-surfactant- 1 % perfume high-HPMC hlgh-HPMC 1% perfume 0.75% perfume Additional data will be presented that demonstrate the ability of low-surfactant-high-HPMC formulations to improve skin moisturization from body washes, hair wet combing from shampoos, and salicylic acid deposition from anti-acne cleansers, Conclusion: Through the addition of 1-2% HPMC it is possible to significantly reduce from 30% to 60% of the total surfactant normally used in cleansing formulations while still generating desirable viscosity and lather properties (volume, creaminess and density). By reducing the level of surfactant the formulator is able to provide unique properties such as improved mildness, improved perfume performance, improved color fading performance, better conditioning properties and increased deposition of active ingredients. A 1-2% usage of HPMC may be considered high for personal cleansing products however, if it is possible to reduce a large portion of the surfactant and/or an expensive ingredient such as perfume, the overall formulation cost can be the same, or in some cases, actually reduced.

2007 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING CONTROLLING HAIR CONDITIONING WITH ACTIVE DELIVERV l'OLVMERS Eric Leroy, C Mabille, A.F. Leron and J. Saintecatherine Rhodia, Inc., 8 Cedar Brook Drive, Cranbury, NJ 08512-7500, USA Background: 103 Shampoo formulations have experienced different composition evolutions over the last decades, from a simple cleansing and foaming base with poor hair conditioning level, to a fairly sophisticated system containing a variety of surfactants combined with one or more conditioning polymers and a silicone agent. Conditioning polymers are usually of cationic nature, and the most commonly used are derived from the chemical modification of polysaccharides such as guar and cellulose [1]. These polymers are essentially used for their reversible surface modification properties that allow for an improvement of the hair wet-combability and its wet-feel after shampooing. To provide such conditioning benefits, these polymers have to be deposited on the hair surface. One widely accepted mechanism to achieve that is the so-called "flocculation" or "coacervation" of a polymer-surfactant complex upon dilution of the shampoo [2] when applied onto wet hair. Because of their size and their hydrophobicity, polymer floes deposit and stick on the hair, and resist to some extend to the rinsing step. At some point in the cosmetic science advances, these objects have been regarded as potential vehicles to deliver particles dispersed in the shampoo formulations on hair, especially silicone droplets and anti-dandruff agents. Over the last years, the importance of the polymer cationic charge density and molecular weight to maximise the deposition of dimethicone oil has been emphasised. Similarly, it has been shown how the droplet size can significantly impact the deposition efficiency from a given polymer-surfactant system, and thus the necessity to properly design the silicone emulsion in the shampoo. Levers to maximise the deposition of silicone oil on hair are fairly well understood, but the difference in behaviour between a virgin hair and a damaged hair is not. Providing some insight to help in answering this question is the object of this presentation, and corresponds to the present unmet needs that consumers are facing: over deposition of conditioning material on undamaged parts of hair, whilst low deposition level on heavily damaged areas. Experimental: Table I hereunder gives an overview of the conditioning polymers tested in this study, their INCi name and a brief description of their chemical nature. Reference Backbone tvne INCi name GuarHM Guar GuarHPTC GuarLM Guar GuarHPTC GuarHH Guar GuarHPTC P -IOLH Cellulose Polvauatemium-10 P -IOHH Cellulose Polvauatemium-10 P -67 HH Cellulose Polyauatemium-67 p1 -6 Svnthetic Polyquatemium-6 p -7 Synthetic Polyquatemium-7 P -74 Synthetic Polyquatemium-74 . . Table J: overview of condtttonmg polymers evaluated Molecular wei2ht Net chal'f!e density High Medium Low Medium High High Hi2h High Low Hi2h Hi2h Hi2h Medium High High High High High Shampoos A to J are simple bases containing 14% of SLES (2EO), 2% of CAPB, 1 % of dimethicone emulsion (which droplet size is of approximately 0,7µm) and 0,2% of a conditioning polymer presented in table 1 above. Formulation pH is adjusted to around 5,0 with citric acid. Virgin medium brown Caucasian hair (referred hereafter as VIRGIN) and regular bleached Caucasian hair (referred hereafter as DAMAGED). Hair tresses used for this study have been purchased to International Hair Importers and Products Inc. Red-dye test: 3 tresses of approximately 2,5g each are pre-treated with a SLES solution, and shampooed with 0,4g of conditioning material for 60 seconds. Tresses are rinsed for 60 seconds under tap water of controlled flow rate and temperature. Tresses are immersed for 3 minutes in a red dye solution, and then left for drying. Dye adsorbed onto the hair surface is then extracted and dosed with UV spectrophotometer at a wavelength of 528 nm. Dye concentration in mg/I is obtained, and final result is expressed as a concentration of dye per mg of hair. Silicone deposition test: 2 tresses of approximately 4,5g each are pre-treated with a SLES solution, and shampooed with 0,45g of conditioning solution for 45 seconds. Tresses ace rinsed for 30 seconds under tap water of controlled flow rate and temperature. Tresses are left for drying over night in a climatic room. Dimethicone deposited on hair is extracted with tetrahydrofuran (THF) solvent, and the quantity of dimethicone in THF is further dosed by Gas Permeation Chromatography (GPC). Final result is expressed in ppm of dimethicone per mg of hair. Results and conclusion: Keratin has an amphoteric nature and an isoelectric point of approximately pH=4. Hence, in the conditions of use of 2- in-l shampoos, surface of healthy hair is negatively charged [3], and we have measured a zeta potential of -15mV at pH=6. In addition, undamaged hair is strongly hydrophobic, featuring an angle of contact of approximately 90° (4].