Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 43, No. 4, 2009

J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 259–261 (May/June 2010) 259 Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 43, No. 4, 2009* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 260

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Page 205Identifying 8-hydroxynaringenin as a suicide substrate of mushroom tyrosinase
Page 211Anti-wrinkle activity of Platycarya strobilacea extract and its application as a cosmeceutical ingredient
Page 225Simplified assay of diethylene glycol and ethylene glycol in various raw materials by capillary gas chromatography
Page 235Skin efficacy of liposomes composed of internal wool lipids rich in ceramides
Page 247Comparative in vivo study of the efficacy and tolerance of exfoliating agents using reflectance spectrophotometric methods
Page 259Abstracts - Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 43, No. 4, 2009
Page 263Abstracts - International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 31, No. 6, 2009
Page 267Abstracts - SÖFW Journal Wydanie Polskie, including Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists, "Wiadomos´ci PTK" Vol. 2, No. 4, 2009

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J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 259–261 (May/June 2010) 259 Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 43, No. 4, 2009* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 260

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EFFICACY AND TOLERANCE OF EXFOLIATING AGENTS 257 (19). To better evaluate the skin tolerance of the tested acids, three different concentrations commonly used in light, medium, and deep peeling were topically applied. The study pointed out that skin erythema induced by topical application of the test organic acids in- creases with higher concentrations. Moreover, the spectrophotometric refl ectance approach is also able to evaluate slight changes in mild erythema induced by UV exposure. Recent experimental studies have demonstrated that subclinical irritation may be associ- ated with topical exposure to glycolic acid. It is conceivable that the pro-infl ammatory mediators released in irritated skin can affect events leading to UV-light sensitivity (13), increasing the risks of acute and chronic skin reactions. However, it is important to note that the rapid penetration of glycolic acid induces a more rapid skin exfoliation but causes a more intense skin redness and irritation. Thus, it is possible to infer that because of their molecular size, mandelic acid and grape acids are absorbed at a slower rate than glycolic acid, thereby causing less skin irritation. In addition, our results suggest that the spectro- photometric refl ectance approach used in this study represents a sensitive method for monitoring and comparing the effectiveness and the safety of different topical agents in skin exfoliating treatments. The methodologies and protocols used in this study may help in choosing the most appropriate topical agents for short/long term and mild/strong skin-exfoliating treatments. REFERENCES (1) W. E. Roberts, Chemical peeling in ethnic dark skin, Dermatol. Ther., 17, 196–205 (2004). (2) F. Furukawa and Y. Yamamoto, Recent advances in chemical peeling in Japan, Dermatol., 33, 655–661 (2006). (3) A. U. Bari, Z. Iqbal, and S. B. Rahman, Tolerance and safety of superfi cial chemical peeling with sali- cylic acid in various facial dermatoses, Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol., 71, 87–90 (2005). (4) G. D. Monheit, Chemical peels, Skin Ther. Lett., 9(2), 6–11 (2004). (5) N. Zakopoulou and G. Kontochristopoulos, Superfi cial chemical peels, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 5(3), 246– 253 (2006). (6) M. Fartasch, J. Teal, and G. K. Menon, Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: Ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 289, 404–409 (1997). (7) T. C. Flynn and W. P. Coleman, Topical revitalization of body skin, J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 14, 280–284 (2000). (8) L. H. Couch and P. C. Howard, Quantifi cation of the glycolic acid in cosmetic products using reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 24, 89–95 (2002). (9) C. Grover and B. S. Reddu, The therapeutic value of glycolic acid peels in dermatology, Indian J. Der- matol. Venereol. Leprol., 69, 148–150 (2003). (10) R. R. Gupta, B. B. Mahajan, and G. Garg, Chemical peeling—Evaluation of glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals, Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol., 67, 28–29 (2001). (11) S. M. Javaheri, S. Handa, I. Kaur, and B. Kumar, Safety and effi cacy of glycolic acid facial peel in Indian women with melasma, Int. J. Dermaytol., 40, 354–357 (2001). (12) N. Cassano, G. Alessandrini, M. Mastrolonardo, and G. A. Vena, Peeling agents: Toxicological and al- lergological aspects, J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 13(1), 14–23 (1999). (13) K. Kaidbey, B. Sutherland, P. Bennett, W. G. Wamer, C. Barton, D. Dennis, and A. Kornhauser, Topi- cal glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 19, 21–27 (2003). (14) C. Ostacolo, A. Sacchi, A. Bernardi, S. Lanieri, A. Brunetta, and G. Pantini, Perfl uoropolyether phos- phate: Skin exfoliation after a topical pre-treatment, TEWL and skin elasticity, by in-vivo non-invasive methods, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 29, 391–398 (2007). (15) G. Pantini, R. Ingoglia, F. Brunetta, and A. Brunetta, Sunless tanning products containing dihydroxy- acetone in combination with a perfl uoropolyether phosphate, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 29, 201–209 (2007).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 258 (16) B. C. Nguyen and I. E. Kochevar, Factors infl uencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone, Br. J. Dermatol., 149, 332–340 (2003). (17) N. Muizzuddin, K. D. Marenus, and D. H. Maes, Tonality of suntan vs sunless tanning with dihydroxy- acetone, Skin Res. Technol., 6, 199–204 (2000). (18) A. Faurschou and H. C. Wulf, Durability of the sun protection factor provided by dihydroxyacetone, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 20, 239–242 (2004). (19) C. Puglia and F. Bonina, In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical ap- plication of soybean phytosterols, J. Cosmet. Sci., 59(3), 217–224 (2008). (20) J. K. Wagner, C. Jovel, H. L. Norton, E. J. Parra, and M. D. Shriver, Comparing quantitative measures of erythema, pigmentation and skin response using refl ectometry, Pigment Cell Res., 15, 379–384 (2002). (21) S. E. Forest, J. T. Grothaus, K. D. Ertel, C. Rader, and J. Plante, Fluorescence spectral imaging of dihy- droxyacetone on skin in vivo, Photochem Photobiol., 77(5), 524–530 (2003). (22) G. E. Piérard and C. Piérard-Franchimont, Dihydroxyacetone test as a substitute for the dansyl chloride test, Dermatology, 186(2), 133–137 (1993). (23) P. Clarys, K. Alewaeters, R. Lambrecht, and A. O. Barel, Skin color measurements: Comparison be- tween three instruments: the Chromameter®, the DermaSpectrometer® and the Mexameter®, Skin. Res. Technol., 6, 230–238 (2000). (24) F. A. Andersen, Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, cal- cium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates, Int. J. Toxicol., 17(Suppl.1), 1–241 (1998). (25) T. Tsen-Fang, H. P. Bowman, S. Shiou-Hwa, and H. I. Maibach, Effects of glycolic acid on light- induced erythema of the skin, Arch. Dermatol., 115, 1188–1191 (1979).

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