130 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(Tween 20) of cosmetic grade was acquired from Vetec Quimica Fina (Brazil), Polysorbate 80
(Tween 80) of cosmetic grade was acquired from Vetec Quimica Fina (Brazil), and glyceryl
monostearate and sesame oil, both of cosmetic grade, were acquired from Croda (Campinas,
Brazil). Capric and caprylic acid triglycerides (Captex, cosmetic grade) were purchased from
ABITEC Corporation (Ohio, USA). Mineral oil of cosmetic grade was purchased from
Penreco (Indiana, USA), and Poloxamer 188 of cosmetic grade was purchased from BASF
(Germany).
AVB QUANTIFICATION METHOD
The chromatographic method was adapted from Abid et al.,24 considering the recommended
criteria from the International Council for Harmonization of Technical Requirements
for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use (ICH) for validation of chromatographic methods
regarding linearity, precision, accuracy, and limits of detection and quantification (ICH
Q6B). Specifications: test procedures and acceptance criteria for biotechnological/biological
products—scientific guideline. The chromatographic parameters used were: Zorbax
Eclipse (Agilent) XDB – C18 column 150mm × 4.6mm, 3.5 µm, with precolumn C18
12.5 × 4.6 mm, 3.5 µm (Agilent), maintained at 30°C. Detection was carried out using a
photodiode array at 360 nm. The mobile phase was composed of acetonitrile (ACN) and
water (90:10 v/v), at a 1 mL/min−1 flow. The injection volume was 10 µL.
SELECTION OF EXCIPIENTS FOR NLC DEVELOPMENT
AVB SOLUBILITY
The solubility of AVB was evaluated in liquid lipids: oleic acid, sesame oil, mineral oil,
isopropyl myristate, capric acid triglycerides, and caprylic acid triglycerides. Excess amount
of AVB was weighed (150 mg) and transferred to amber glass bottles, where 1 mL of each oil
was added. Each oil was tested in triplicates. The samples were each vortexed for 1 minute
and then placed in an orbital shaker (KS 4000, IKA®, Germany) at a speed of 150 rpm,
at 37°C, for 24 hours. The samples were then filtered through 0.45 µm polyvinylidene
fluoride (PVDF) microfiltration membranes, were diluted with 10 mL ACN, and AVB
solubility was then quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).
THERMOGRAVIMETRY AND DIFFERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSIS
The thermal evaluation of AVB and raw lipid excipients, as well as the AVB:excipients physical
mixture (1:1 m/m), was carried out in a DTG-60 thermobalance (Shimadzu, Kyoto, Japan),
with simultaneous measurement of mass loss (TG/DTG) and melting events (DTA), under a
nitrogen atmosphere (50 mL/min−1), with a heating rate of 10 °C.min−1, and a temperature
range of 25–500°C. Platinum crucibles were used for the analysis of 5 mg of each sample.
FOURIER TRANSFORM INFRARED SPECTROSCOPY
Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectra were obtained on a
Varian 640-IR (Varian Medical Systems Inc., Jundiaí, Brazil). AVB, lipid excipients, and
(Tween 20) of cosmetic grade was acquired from Vetec Quimica Fina (Brazil), Polysorbate 80
(Tween 80) of cosmetic grade was acquired from Vetec Quimica Fina (Brazil), and glyceryl
monostearate and sesame oil, both of cosmetic grade, were acquired from Croda (Campinas,
Brazil). Capric and caprylic acid triglycerides (Captex, cosmetic grade) were purchased from
ABITEC Corporation (Ohio, USA). Mineral oil of cosmetic grade was purchased from
Penreco (Indiana, USA), and Poloxamer 188 of cosmetic grade was purchased from BASF
(Germany).
AVB QUANTIFICATION METHOD
The chromatographic method was adapted from Abid et al.,24 considering the recommended
criteria from the International Council for Harmonization of Technical Requirements
for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use (ICH) for validation of chromatographic methods
regarding linearity, precision, accuracy, and limits of detection and quantification (ICH
Q6B). Specifications: test procedures and acceptance criteria for biotechnological/biological
products—scientific guideline. The chromatographic parameters used were: Zorbax
Eclipse (Agilent) XDB – C18 column 150mm × 4.6mm, 3.5 µm, with precolumn C18
12.5 × 4.6 mm, 3.5 µm (Agilent), maintained at 30°C. Detection was carried out using a
photodiode array at 360 nm. The mobile phase was composed of acetonitrile (ACN) and
water (90:10 v/v), at a 1 mL/min−1 flow. The injection volume was 10 µL.
SELECTION OF EXCIPIENTS FOR NLC DEVELOPMENT
AVB SOLUBILITY
The solubility of AVB was evaluated in liquid lipids: oleic acid, sesame oil, mineral oil,
isopropyl myristate, capric acid triglycerides, and caprylic acid triglycerides. Excess amount
of AVB was weighed (150 mg) and transferred to amber glass bottles, where 1 mL of each oil
was added. Each oil was tested in triplicates. The samples were each vortexed for 1 minute
and then placed in an orbital shaker (KS 4000, IKA®, Germany) at a speed of 150 rpm,
at 37°C, for 24 hours. The samples were then filtered through 0.45 µm polyvinylidene
fluoride (PVDF) microfiltration membranes, were diluted with 10 mL ACN, and AVB
solubility was then quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).
THERMOGRAVIMETRY AND DIFFERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSIS
The thermal evaluation of AVB and raw lipid excipients, as well as the AVB:excipients physical
mixture (1:1 m/m), was carried out in a DTG-60 thermobalance (Shimadzu, Kyoto, Japan),
with simultaneous measurement of mass loss (TG/DTG) and melting events (DTA), under a
nitrogen atmosphere (50 mL/min−1), with a heating rate of 10 °C.min−1, and a temperature
range of 25–500°C. Platinum crucibles were used for the analysis of 5 mg of each sample.
FOURIER TRANSFORM INFRARED SPECTROSCOPY
Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectra were obtained on a
Varian 640-IR (Varian Medical Systems Inc., Jundiaí, Brazil). AVB, lipid excipients, and