102 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS eter until the temperature is 5øC. Pour resulting mixture through a Bficllner funnel containing a 11-cm. No. 595 S&S filter paper turned up with a I/2-in. edge, and wetted with methanol. Filter by gravity or gentle suction. Do not allow the material on the filter to dry or cake. Wash residue with 20 ml. of ice- chilled methanol and draih dry with strong suction. Transfer the til- trate to a tared beaker with the aid of chloroform, evaporate to dryness on the steam bath, heat in an oven at 100øC. for 10 minutes, cool in'a vacuum desiccator, and weigh. Re- peat drying in oven until weight is constant to 1-2 mg. SUMMARY Studies have been made on a new analytical method for the analysis of mixtures of hydrocarbons , bees- wax, and spermaceti. Chroma- tography plays an important role in the procedure. It is believed that the outlined chromatographic pro- cedure can be used to detect adulter- ants particularly, hydrocarbons in beeswar and spermaceti. Work in this field is contemplated. BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Williams, K. A., zlnalyst, 71, 259 (1946). 2. Fryer, P. J., and Weaton, F. E., "Tech- nical Handbook of Oils, Fats and Waxes," Vol. 1, page 1'86, Cambridge University Press (.1920).

CHEMISTRY IN PERMANENT WAVING--PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE* By Ma,c.t J. SUTER. President, Eugene Ltd., Brooklyn, N.Y. A mscussxoN of chemistry in permaner•t waving can be either very technical, or it can be general in character. This discussion will be rather general. The technical aspects will be stressed more fully by Dr. Eugene F. Traub and by Mr. Raymond Reed, who follow me shortly. Why do we have permanent wav- ing? We have permanent waving because it is the misfortune of women to be born with straight hair in most instances. There are no accurate statistics which state what percentage have straight hair and what percentage have curly hair. As a result of surveys, which we made some years back, we came to the conclusion that fully 80% of all women are born with straight hair. Since time immortal, it has also been women's fondest hope and dream to have curly hair, since in- variably it is more becoming to them. How did they obtain curls in their hair in the old days? As far back as the early Egyptian civilization women would roll their hair up on * Presented at the May 13, 1947, Meet- ing, New York City. i -wooden sticks and cover same with mud from the banks of the Nile. They would then sit in the hot sun until the mud was dry. This pro- duced some sort of curl, which dis- appeared, however, when the hair was washed. It seems rather strange that from that time until modern civilization-- to be exact, around 1910--hair was always curled by means of a curling iron or by boiling it in water. This, however, never resulted in a lasting wave. When the hair was sham- pooed after a treatment, it again became straight. I spoke a minute ago, about boiling a curl into hair with ordi- nary water. Since, of course, you cannot take a woman's head and boil it in water, wig-makers would make chignons and other hair pieces by boiling hair on wooden curlers for five to six hours. They would then fasten all these curls together and make wigs which women of 'the 18th and 19th centuries wore on dif- ferent occasions. It is noteworthy that until 1910 no research was attempted to see why some .hair was straight and some curly, and why boiling in 103