THE PERFUMER'S ART 127 means of Ylang, Absolute Jasmin, and a trace of Absolute Orange Flower.' ß Then, we will enlarge the accord with a dark tone, by using a trace of Absolute Reseda or a good spe- cialty of that type. We will build a solid background with natural Orris, Vitiveryl Acetate, and'a Violet Root base. The odor of earth and undergrowth would be obtained by means of a small quantity of Oak Moss and one of the excellent mosses which are offered by vari- ous specialty houses. The animal effect of transition will be given by Civet and Mus- cone, extracted from the American Muskrat, rather than tincture of natural Musk which has a secondary odor which may stand out unfa- vorably in a perfume as simple as Violet. A slight rounding effect will be VIOLET PERFUME FOR VARIOUS USES Cheaper Extract Extract Cream Powder Soap Aldehyde C-8, 11, 12 1 Citral Citron 2 Bergamot 8 Ionone Alpha 400 Methyl Heptine Carbonate 40 Ionone Beta 20 Methyl Ionones, Gamma, etc. 50 Rhodinol 15 Violet Absolute 20 Violet Leaves Ab- solute 80 Cassie Absolute 15 Jasmin Absolute 35 Orange Flower Ab- solute 2 Ylang Extra 20 Reseda Absolute 5 Orris Absolute 10 Orris Resin .. Vetiveryl Acetate 10 Oak Moss Resin 8 Moss Bases 12 Heliotropine 12 Anisic Aldehyde 10 Ambergris Tincture 25 Civet Tincture 100 Muscone Tincture 100 15 15 Violet Syn. 200 100 1 1 2 2 Bols de Rose 40 8 8 400 500 500 Ionone Soap 200 40 40 40 40 2'0 30 20 100 150 100 Methyl Ionones for Soap 100 15 Geranium 10 Cassie Syn. 20 Jasmin Syn. 70 50 40 Orange Flower Syn. • 20 30 20 Reseda Syn. 5 5 5 Labdanum Resin Civet Syn. Musk Ketone 12 10 10 1 4 40 lOOO 15 16 20 .. --' '1000 20 15 20 5 10 5O Cananga or Ylang III 100 Orris Resin for Soap or Orris Liquid Dist. on Cedarwood VetDer Sandalwood Benzoin Resin Musk Xylol 250 25 10 50 35 25 lOO 35 1000

128 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY given by using small quantities of Aubepine, Coumarin, Heliotropin, and natural Ambergris, whereas an initial note of freshness will be obtained with traces of Aldehydes C-8, C-12, Aldehyde Violet, Citral, and Bergamot. This perfume diluted in a high- grade alcohol can--although it is made of expensive productsrobe balanced in such a way that the cost will not exceed that of a good French perfume. If we want to derive from this formula a perfume less expensive or an oil for scenting a powder or 'a soap, we will have to do what I call transposition work. For example: In the case of a less expensive perfume, we will replace the costly products (such as ab- solutes) with one of the numerous compounds offered at various prices by specialty houses. There is an important point which I must em- phasize, that is: the replacement will have to be done on the basis of equal strength if the product of replacement is, for instance, half as strong as the absolute which we eliminate, we will have to use twice as much of the replacement product so as to maintain the balance of the formula. We will also have to modify the OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS formula if we want an oil for pow- der. In that case we will have to ke. ep in mind that an oil for'powder is generally cheaper than the oil we use for the extract. We must also take into consideration the fact that materials oxidize and evapo- rate more in powders than in the ex- tract. We will have to use larger quantities of products like Orris, possibly use resinoid rather than concrete, reinforce the Vetiver notes, use fixative like Benzoin and increase the Civet. It is evident that it will be very difficult to make an oil for soap, because Ionones are generally de- stroyed by free alkali which is. pres- ent in soaps. Nevertheless, we may use a certain quantity of Ion- ones and Methyl Ionones as long as we fix them properly. According to the price that our compound must cost, we will use Ionones and Methyl Ionones of technical grade for soap and even some residues. If we can 'afford Orris Resinold or Liquid Orris, distilled on cedar, we will use these products. Oak Moss and Syn- thetic Moss will furnish a very inter- esting background a trace of' Geranium Bourbon instead of Rose Cistus or Labdanum and Clary Sage instead of Ambergris and a little synthetic Civet and Musk will com- plete the formula.