MIXTURES OF HYDROCARBONS, BEESWAX, AND SPERMACETI 107 cold waving. I shall discuss these a little more later on, but will not go any further into cold waving now since Mr. Reed, who follows, will be speaking primarily about the cold waving system and knows much more about it than I. What is the future of permanent waving so far as the beauty shop industry is concerned? There are two main avenues which must be explored at great lengthi Number 1: More research work should be done in connection with the formulation of solutions for the waving of hair. All too often, solu- tions are marketed in the field with- out having had sufficient research work behind them. By that I do not mean that there was not enough chemical research and formulation-- but not enough actual experience research. My colleagues and I have found that sometimes we can theoretically produce what we think is the finest solution for permanent waving, and the finest method of permanent waving, and our surprise is great when we use the solution or system on an actual head of hair and it does not work out. For example, according to theory and textbooks and everything we have known before, the addition of alcohol to a waving solution should give a wave at reduced temperatures if the heat waving method is used but that does not al'ways work out. In my opinion, all research lab- oratories should have an expert on permanent waving, and by that I do not mean a ha•ir stylist who can set hair very prettily, but a man who is not afraid to speak his own mind and say "No" to something that took two years to develop in the laboratories, Because, what may appear on the surface to be a good wave, and a long-lasting wave, even though it has been watched for six to nine months, may not work out in Phoenix, Arizona, or in Florida or in Texas. Water condi- tions, types of soaps used to wash the h.air, t$pes of rinses and bleaches--everything has a bearing on results. In fact, I do not think any of you people can have any idea of what stuff some women will put on their hair during the day or night, which will affect the wa.ving of the hair. In our own laboratories, we have a collection of everything that is put on the market. We try to use everything on every conceivable type of hair--and if a permanent waving solution will wave hair that has been washed with bar soap, detergents, olive soaps, etc., and which has. been subjected also to dandruff remover preparations, Lis- terine, and other items, and then ex- posed to air, wind, and hot, dry sun, we can be reasonably sure that it will wave hair any place in the UnitedStates. In my opinion, too little time is spent on this-particular phase. Permanent waving manufacturers have no control over what a woman will use before and in between her permanent waves. She is constantly bombarded by fantastic claims ac- credited to shampoos and all other preparations used on the scalp, and

108 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS unless we use all of them on the hair we wish to wave, we cannot be certain what our solutions will do when they meet the actual test in the field. The second problem which we have to face in the future is that of experimentation in electronic radi- ation and electronic heating as Jt can affect the waving of hair. There we have to be extremely careful'because when we work with high-frequency radiation, we are dealing with the brain. Waves have been given by means of electronic radiation, whether it be high fre- quency or otherwise, when the hair was on a wooden block. But I,o personally, would be rather wary of using the same methods on a human being. What will the high fre- quency do to the brain matter? That is something that' will have to be discovered. Also, what would happen if there were a short in the high frequency machine? Shorts in high frequency 'machines have been known to kill instantly anyone Jn contact with them. I want to end this little discussion with a warning--I am now speaking principally and primarily about permanent waving as it is done in the beauty shop field. 'A lot of permanent waves .today are being sold in packages in the drug stores, and it is seriously affecting the business done by beauty shops. We must be careful not to introduce any items in the beauty shop field unless we are absolutely sure of them. Too many hairdressers have had 'to pay by being the guinea pigs of manufacturers' experimentations. They do not like it, and in the proc- ess of this experimentation a lot of ill will is created and women are driven away from beauty shops. Whereas no actual figures are available, it is fairly certain today that no more women get permanent waves,. percentage-wise, than they did ten years ago. They have just been stung too many times and have had their hair ruined too many times. Whether it be the fault of the products or the operat- ors-they do not care. We have a man-size job ahead of us in development work. A-few large companies who, for the past 10 or 15 years, have conscientiously followed careful and progressive experimentation, will suffer if they do not see to it •that certain stand- ards are developed by all the manu- facturers concerned, and it might not be a bad idea if the manufac- turers in the permanent. waving 'field were to establish a scholarship or set up a course in research work at one of our ufiiversities, similar to the research work that has been done for many years by Dr. Speak- man at Leeds University in Eng- land. So far as I know, Leeds is the only university in the world that has done some far-reaching work in the whys and wherefores of permanent waving. I hope that this little talk has given you some idea about the problems of permanent waving. Should you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them.