106 ß brains in the chemical field today, by making the best possible perma- nent waving solutions, cannot hope to obtain results in the b. eauty shops unless the operators are co•npetent and give a proper wave according to instructions. Many manufac- turers are blamed 'for failures which are the fault of the operators. Machineless waving, as waving is known when chemical pads are •sect for heating, has gained greatly in favor and is today one of the three leading methods of waving'hair. As was the case when croquignole first came to the market, stronger solu- tions had to be found which would wave the hair under the reduced heats prevailing in chemical pads, as against the higher heats gener- ated by a machi ne. Leaders of the industry fully real- ized tha•: solutions could be made just so strong and no more, because the hair it. self would be attacked and rather than obtaining a perman- ent wave the hair would be de- stroyed. However, some of the smaller ar.d irresponsible manufac- turers, who sold their solution on the basis that it would give a strong curl, regardless of the effect upon the hair, flooded the market with strong solutions, claiming that they were actually better for the hair because they contained certain oils. Today most permanent wave solutions contain various kinds of soluble oils for the purpose of pro- tecting the hair fram the harsh chemicals prevalent in most solu- tions and it is noteworthy that somewhat of a race devdloped when JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS one manufacturer would put in more oil, then find he needed more sulfite ind other chemicals, only to find he needed more oil and then again more sulfite. Actually, some of the thick, cream solutions today are materially stronger than is required for normal waving operations, and whereas we have seen that some of these thick, cream 'solutions seems to give a de- cent appearance, in three or four weeks' time the hair will look like straw. During the recent war, the cold waving system of permanent waving was developec•. The original com- plex machinery which was used had passed hydrogen sulfite through curling rods. However, this type of waving received a setback when a beauty shop customer died from blood poisoning, which was gener- ally attributed to the use of hydro- gen sulfite. This setback, however, did not halt progress and new cold waving solutions were introduced on the market containing ammonium thioglycolate. The introduction of cold waving necessitated a com- pletely new approach to permanent waving The beauty shop operator had to unlearn nearly everything she had learned in the last 20 years. The hair could not be stretched, and had to be carefully rinsed out with neutralizing solution to stop the action of the ammonium thioglycol- ate. Cold waving became very popular during the war, but it is now on a decline due to certain factors that are not connected with the technical aspects, or the results of

MIXTURES OF HYDROCARBONS, BEESWAX, AND SPERMACETI 107 cold waving. I shall discuss these a little more later on, but will not go any further into cold waving now since Mr. Reed, who follows, will be speaking primarily about the cold waving system and knows much more about it than I. What is the future of permanent waving so far as the beauty shop industry is concerned? There are two main avenues which must be explored at great lengthi Number 1: More research work should be done in connection with the formulation of solutions for the waving of hair. All too often, solu- tions are marketed in the field with- out having had sufficient research work behind them. By that I do not mean that there was not enough chemical research and formulation-- but not enough actual experience research. My colleagues and I have found that sometimes we can theoretically produce what we think is the finest solution for permanent waving, and the finest method of permanent waving, and our surprise is great when we use the solution or system on an actual head of hair and it does not work out. For example, according to theory and textbooks and everything we have known before, the addition of alcohol to a waving solution should give a wave at reduced temperatures if the heat waving method is used but that does not al'ways work out. In my opinion, all research lab- oratories should have an expert on permanent waving, and by that I do not mean a ha•ir stylist who can set hair very prettily, but a man who is not afraid to speak his own mind and say "No" to something that took two years to develop in the laboratories, Because, what may appear on the surface to be a good wave, and a long-lasting wave, even though it has been watched for six to nine months, may not work out in Phoenix, Arizona, or in Florida or in Texas. Water condi- tions, types of soaps used to wash the h.air, t$pes of rinses and bleaches--everything has a bearing on results. In fact, I do not think any of you people can have any idea of what stuff some women will put on their hair during the day or night, which will affect the wa.ving of the hair. In our own laboratories, we have a collection of everything that is put on the market. We try to use everything on every conceivable type of hair--and if a permanent waving solution will wave hair that has been washed with bar soap, detergents, olive soaps, etc., and which has. been subjected also to dandruff remover preparations, Lis- terine, and other items, and then ex- posed to air, wind, and hot, dry sun, we can be reasonably sure that it will wave hair any place in the UnitedStates. In my opinion, too little time is spent on this-particular phase. Permanent waving manufacturers have no control over what a woman will use before and in between her permanent waves. She is constantly bombarded by fantastic claims ac- credited to shampoos and all other preparations used on the scalp, and