122 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Patch test studies using the Schwartz and Peck method (22) have shown that the incidence of sensitization to cold waving lotion is quite small, and that when the concentration of thioglycolate is kept below 1 N, the danger of'pri- mary irritation is negligible. More than 400 patches were applied to employees, some of whom come in contact with thioglycolates daily, while others have come into con- tact with the material only occa- sionally, and •till others had never been exposed to it before. Out of this relatively large series, only one definite positive (+) response has been obtained. BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Schnitzler, A.,"Theode und Hilfsmittel des Dauerwellens" Verlag fiir Chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky• Augsburg, Germany (1936). 2. Neville, H. A., and Harris, M., 5tour. Research Nat. Bur. Stand., 1•t, 765 (1935). 3. Steinhardt, J., Fugitt, C. H., and Harris, M., Ibid., 25, 519 (1940). 4. Speakman, J. B., and Elliott, G. H., Proc. Sym. Fibrous Proteins, Univ. Leeds (May, 19•,6). 5. Sullivan, M. X., _publ. Health Rep. U. 8._P.H.S., 41, 1030 (1926) 44, 1421 (1929). '. 6. Sanford, D., and Humoller, F. H., •tnalytical Chem. (in press). 7. Sookne, A.M., and Harris, M., your. Research Nat. Bur. Stand.• 19, 5.35 (1937). 8. Phillips, H., _proc. Syrnp. Fibrous Pro- teins, Univ. Leeds (May, 1946). 9. Bull, H. B., and Gutmann, M., 5t.-4. C.S., 66, 1253 (1944). 10. Jones, C. B., and Mechan, D. K., •trch. Biochern., 2, 209 (1943) 3, 193 (1943-1944). 11. Stoves, J. L., Trans. Faraday Soc.• 38, 501 (1942). 12. Rutherford, H. A., and Harris, M., SCour. Research Nat. Bur. Stand., 20, 559 (1938). 13. Rutherford, 59H3 A., and Harris, M., Ibid., 23, (1939). Cf. Harris, M., and Smith, A. L., Ibid., 20, 563 (1938). 14. Lemin, D. R., and Vickerstaff, T., Proc. Symp. Fibrous Proteins, Univ.. Leeds (May, 1946). 15. Blackburn, Middlebrook, and Phillips, Nature, 150, 57 (1942). 16. Rykland, L. R., and Schmidt, C. L. A., Univ. Calif. _publ. _physioL, 8, 257 (1944). 17. Stoves, J. L., _proc. Royal Soc. Edin- burgh B, 62, 132 (1945). 18. Lehmann (Wolfen), E., KoL Zeitsch., 108, 6 (1944). 19 Mercer, E. H., and Rees, A. L. G.• •tustralian 5 e. ExptL BioL Med. Sci., 24, 147 (1946). 20. Hock, C. W., and McMurdie, H. F., 5eour. Research Nat. Bur. Stand., 31, 229 (1943). 21. Draize, J. H., Woodard, G., and Cal- very, H. O., 5eour. _pharm. and Exp. Therap., 82, 377 (1944). 22. Schwartz, L., and Peck, S. M., _Pub. Health Rep. U.S._P.H.S., 59, 546 (1944).

THE PERFUMER'S ART* By HENRI ROBERT President, Henri Robert Inc., New York City IT IS with pleasure that I avail myself of the opportunity to present a few personal ideas on the art of perfumery. Such a subject cannot be exhausted in a few min- utes and I do not pretend to do so. Therefore, I am only going to talk about certain facts which I deem particularly pertinent. Having de- voted all my life to the art of per- fumery with firms in Paris and Grasse, I would be happy if, in giv- ing you the French point of view on those subjects I can contribute, in a modest way, to a better understand- ing and co-operation between the technicians of both countries and thereby further the advancement of our marvelous science. The great strides made by the American perfumery industry dur- ing the last few years have resulted in such an improvement in the meth- ods of advertising, distribdting and 'packaging of perfumes, that the success of a perfume is generally credited to these factors. Conse- quently, the part played by the quality of the perfume has remained * Presented at the May 15, 1946, Meeting, New York City. 123 in the background. This is a serious mistake because, the quality is of primary importance. If we study, obj'ectively, the perfume market, we see that if well-planned promotions have been succcessful, on the other hand, the perfumes whose success have best withstood the test of time are those of whlch the quality was decidedly supcrier. The others continue to sell only through a sus- tained effort and their sales fall oJF whenever this advertising and pro- motion slow down. Inasmuch as I am addressing a group of technicians I do not think it necessary to stress that point, ex- cept to emphasize the advisability to make it generally known. I shall endeavor to analyze for you the qualities that a good per- fume must have and how this can be obtained. I will classify these qualities in two groups: the artistic quality and the technical qualities. Artistic qualities: 1. A perfume must be pleas- ant. 2. It must be elegant. 3. It must be original.