BACTERIOLOGICAL AND DERMATOLOGICAL TESTING OF COSMETICS 153 half dozen were found to be suitable for use in cosmetics. (4) T•s•'s tog G•P. mCm.•i• oP. Fu•cxcm.•I• V.•i•u•. Cosmetics can be so treated as to be not only bacteriostatic or fungi- static, but also germicidal or fungi- cidal, which means that they not only inhibit the growth of bacteria or fungi but actually kill them by con- tact. The germicidal or fungicidal value can be determined by making a phenol coefficient determination or by using Barail's contamination test. The safest way to determine the germicidal or fungicidal value of cosmetics is to use our contamina- tion method which has been pub- lished several years ago and adopted by many bacteriological laboratories. It can be used by any bacteriologist and gives results in forty-eight hours. The compounds mentioned before as being bacteriostatic' and fungistatic agents suitable for cos- metics are also used to give germici- dal and fungicidal properties to vari- ous kinds of cosmetics. Selection of Tests From the description of the vari- ous tests it is obvious that most of them are applicable to all types of cosmetics. Except for the eye in- jection and the feeding toxicity test it can be said that all other tests can be applied to all cosmetics. We can divide cosmetics into three groups according to the nature of the tests to which they should be submitted prior to marketing. The first group includes mascara, eyelid kohl, eye lotions, face pow- ders, face lotions, soaps, shampoos, detergents, hair lacquers, hair dyes, hair bleaches, hair tonics, hair rinses, and cold wave lotions. They are tested for toxicity by intra- peritoneal injection and their mini- mum lethal dose should be deter- mined. Their irritating and sensi- tizing properties are evaluated by means of intradermal injections and patch tests on at least 200 people. They are of course tested for purity. As all these cosmetics may actually come in contact with the eye, eye injection tests should also be per- formed by all means on all of these compounds. This is obvious when many eye lotions and eye creams are concerned but there have been seri- ous accidents caused by each and every one of the other types, such as when a single drop of shampoo, hair bleach, cold wave lotion, or any other one accidentally falls in the eye. The second group includes tooth- pastes, dentifrices of all kinds, mouth washes, lipsticks, nail pol- ishes, and cuticle softeners. They are tested for toxicity by intraperi- toneal injection, determination of the minimum lethal dose, and an animal injection and patch tests should determine whether they are irritating and sensitizing, or not. Tests for purity are conducted and also feeding tests. Everybody will understand that feeding tests have to be conducted on toothpastes, mouth washes, and lipsticks. Cases of toxicity due to nail polishes and cuticle softeners have been reported

154 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CFI'EMISTS by nail biting individuals or people who just suck their fingers: not only children but grownups too. The third group includes face creams, cake make-up, shaving creams, after-shave lotions, hemo- static cakes, rouge, suntan lotions, deodorants, anti-perspirants, hand lotions, foot powders, leg make-up, colognes, and perfumes. It does not appear necessary to conduct eye in- jection tests or feeding tests on cos- metics of this group although we have seen cases where it was neces- sary to do so because of accidents that had caused serious lesions. This group is tested for toxicity by intraperitoneal injection and mini- mum lethal dose and for primary irritants and cutaneous sensitizers by animal injection and patch tests. Purity tests are conducted as on the other two groups as explained. Fur- thermore, tests for preservatives, bacteriostatic and ftfngistatic prop- erties, germicidal or fungicidal values are eventually conducted on each of these three groups of cos- metics if the tested sample is sup- posed to contain preservatives or to have been treated in order to render it germicidal and fungicidal. (5) P•.RrORMANC•. T•.STS The cosmetics of the first group will be tested as follows for perform- ance and efficiency. Mascara •should be free from clots, adhere to the lashes, and not be washed off by water (rain) or tears. Eyelid kohl should not smear or spread: its pig- ment should be distributed evenly and the finished product should not be water soluble.- These properties of mascara and kohl can be verified in the laboratory. The claims made by the manufacturers of eye lotions can be verified only in field tests on large consumers panels. Face pow- ders can be tested in the laboratory for particle size and their adhesive properties in regard to skin how-' ever, the tests should be conducted on large consumers panels. Face lotions can be tested in labora- tories for cleansing properties but all claims concerning im- provement of skin conditions should be verified in the field. Soap shampoos and detergents can be tested in vitro for cleanliness, formation of suds, appearance of the hair, formation of a film, but the most conclusive results will be ob- tained in field tests involving a great number of people of all ages, of both sexes and of various colors and tex- tureiofhair. Thisof course, applies to hair lacquers, hair dyes, hair tonics, and cold wave lotions which cannot be efficiently tested in the laboratory. Among the cosmetics of group 2, toothpastes, dentifrices, and mouth washes can be tested in vitro for efficiency. On the other hand, consumers panels are indicated when comparative tests ar.e in- volved. Lipsticks and cuticle soft- eners can only be tested in the field. Some cosmetics of group 3 can be tested only in the field: such are face creams, cake make-up, shaving creams, after-shave lotions, rouge, hand lotions, leg make-up, colognes, and perfumes. Suntan lotions can be first tested in the laboratory in