BACTERIOLOGICAL AND DERMATOLOGICAL TESTING OF COSMETICS 155 order to determine whether they actually form a film which is im- pervious to ultra-violet light. Deo- dorants are first tested in vitro and their efficiency measured by means of our osmometer, which is the only scientific apparatus giving in one single operation the odor thre.shold number of any compound. Testing of deodorants in the laboratory is always made with our artificial perspiration whose formula is iden- tical to that of human perspiration and which is always kept fresh and with proper bacterial insemination. Finally foot powders can be studied for their fungistatic properties, against athlete's foot organisms and for deodorizing properties by means of our osmometer. Of course, the best results on suntan lotions, deo- dorants, and foot powders in the field will be obtained only after these preliminary tests will have been con- ducted in the laboratory and given satisfactory results. CONCLUSIONS As that of a physician, the first preoccupation and worry of a cos- metic chemist sho.uld be and most of the time is: prim urn non nocere (not to cause any harm). His second worry is, of course, to combine ex- perience, technology, and cleanliness in order to obtain the cleanest and most appealing products. At this stage, he is very close to his goal, the production of a high- class product of great efficiency and innocuity. In testing his final product, or its component parts, the cosmetic bac- teriologist and the cosmetic derma- tologist will give the cosmetic chem- ist the best service and advice for many reasons. First of all some cosmetic bacteriologists and cos- metic dermatologists are also cos- metic chemists. Those who are not, know enough cosmetology to under- stand the problems they are con- fronted with and to satisfactorily solve them. Finally, after many years of experience, all problems which appear complicated to the be- ginner or the layman, are just repeat performances to the seasoned cos- metic bacteriologist or cosmetic der- matologist, and both can handle them in the shortestpossible time and with the greatest chance of success. Second, everyone will agree that some of these'tests require either a specialized staff and equipment, or an organization with outside con- tacts and ramifications that very few cosmetic chemists have. Testing cosmetics in accordance with the requirements of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Federal Trade Commission and in compliance with the desiderata, hopes, and wishes of cosmetic chem- ists is not always easy. Yet it is never boresome sometimes it is fun. Personally, we find it always grati- fying because we always endeavor to account for your hard work and sleepless nights and enjoy giving you the final OK that means so much to yOU.
YOUR SHARE OF THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR PRODUCT CLAIMS* By WLI,aM L. HaNawaY Breed,/lbbott & Morgan, New York, N.Y. B•.roRE I proceed with the substance of my remarks I want to express my great appreciation to your Chairman and to your Associa- tion for inviting me to your meet- ing. The subject matter of this paper would be very tiresome indeed to you and me if I adhered to the nar- row scope suggested by its title. I have tried, therefore, to make it part of a broader theme concerned with advertising and the ultimate responsibility for proving product claims. There is more and more evidence of a revulsion on the part of the con- suming public to advertising which is offensive or extravagant. That is largely a matter of good or bad form in advertising and with that I am not concerned here. The subject matter of this paper deals with the proof necessary to support represen- tations of fact in advertising. Facts are the things that chemists and scientists deal with and understand and what constitutes proof of facts is just the same whether one chemist * Presented at the May 19, 1948, Meet- ing, New York City. is dealing with a colleague or whether he is dealing with the Government in the defense of ques- tioned claims. The advertising agency business, with its present wide range of serv- ices, is a comparatively new one. It is a science in the sense that there are certain well-recognized proce- dures that will produce certain well- known results. As business be- comes more competitive, advertising becomes more competitive and there is greater and greater incentive to stretch a fact here and there, or to state it so artistically that decep- tion, if in fact it were, is not appar- ent on first reading. As a result of that well-understood phenomenon the major networks have installed censors, at least one well-known periodical has been made responsi- ble under a Federal Trade Commis- sion order for its advertisers' repre- sentations, and some newspapers now refuse to accept certain kinds of advertising of drugs and cosmetics. Advertising is an inextricable part of salesmanship. Both have the common purpose of inducing the purchase of the sellers' products, 156
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