INQUIRY INTO ORIGIN OF LITERATURE OF PERFUMERY 9•07 literatures of perfumes and liquors. Another book of this period was Ambrose Cooper's "The Complete Distiller,"of which the second edi- tion was dated I76O , and a later .one •8•o. It was not Cooper's in- tention to differentiate between the distiller and the perruiner he there- fore combined in one book the meth- ods "of drawing spirits from malt, raisins, molasses, sugar, etc." with the methods for the manufacture of rose water, orange flower water, cinnamon water, and similar prod- ucts, and finally included a section on formulas and instructions for making "all the compound waters and rich cordials so largely imported from France and Italy as, likewise, all those now made in Great Britain." As the art of perfumery pro- gressed, it had to dissociate itself from the liquor industry. The studies of essential oils, based on botanical classifications and ad- vanced chemical knowledge, had gone forward, and there began to appear the first books devoted to the subject, alphabetical descrip- tions, handbooks, botanical arrange- ments, several of which have re- mained famous to this day. It was this literature of the nineteenth century that led to the first appear- ance of the monumental work of Glidemeister and Hoffmann, known in English as "The Volatile Oils," and to the contributions of Seroruler, Charabot and his col- leagues, and Sawer, among others. Concurrent with the development of this important and permanent new literature on essential oils, there grew a need for works devoted to the new synthetic organic chemi- cals that were being utilized in per- fumery. The last half of the nine- teenth century saw the successful synthesis of coumarin by William Henry Perkin the synthesis of vanillin by Tiemann the creation of ionone and synthetic musks--in short, the birth of a new industry which revolutionized the art of per- fumery, and which had to be re- flected in its literature. The earliest work devoted to synthetic aromatic materials seems to be "Les Parfums Artificiels" (•9oo) byEugbne Charabot. When we consider that aromatic chemistry was in its infancy, it is amazing to chronicle the large number of signifi- cant aromatics that were described by Charabot. In addition to those mentioned previously, this book included descriptions of linalool and its esters, citronellol, geraniol, men- thol, methyl salicylate, eugenol, iso- eugenol, citral, benzaldehyde, yara yara, neroline, cinnamic aidehyde, heliotropin, aubepine, and many another substance utilized in large quantities to this day. We have come to the introduc- tion of synthetics to the literature, and this would be a natural stop- ping-point for our discussion, as we have sought to confine ourselves to the origins and the highlights of the dev. elopment of this literature, rather than to bring it up to date. However, there are three other works which we should like to men- tion.

9•08 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The first is the curious and de- lightful little essay by Benjamin Franklin, entitled--it really had no title, but it has been given one by various publishers--"On Perfumes" or "A Letter to the Royal Academy of Brussels." Here is a work as clever as it is ribald, written with the inimitable humor of the great Franklin. CLIFFOblD, PEIq FU 1•I EIL Figure 4.--A curious book in perfume literature is this nineteenth-century novel, "A Romance of Perfume Lands." (Collec- tion, Library of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.) The second is the strange story of adventure, "A Romance of Per- fume Lands, or, the Search for Capt. Jacob Cole, with Interesting Facts about Perfumes and Articles Used in the Toilet," by Frank S. Clifford (Boston, x875), a story of a world- wide search that takes the hero and his party to every land where per- fume-oil bearing plants are grown. Dull as it is, this is a unique contri- bution to the literature. Finally, there is "The Romance of Perfumes," a small volume by Richard Le Gallienne, not an origi- nal historical document, but as precious and exquisite a piece of writing as the gentle art of per- fumery has ever inspired. In summarizing, I should like to emphasize the following points: I. There is considerable con- fusion and error in many histories and bibliographies concerning auth- ors, dates, places of publication, and languageof origin. Previous biblio- graphical references should there- fore be checked at original sources, in order to avoid perpetuation of the errors. 2. There is a great deal of un- known and forgotten literature, which can fill an important gap in the history of perfumes and of cos- metics. 3- It is difficult to draw a clear line of demarcation between the early literature of perfumery and that of kindred arts, but we find that the first literature of perfume blend- ing was linked with that of medical therapy and of bodily adornment. 4- A large part of the extant early writings on perfumery origi- nated in Italy, and there has been a disproportionate emphasis placed by historians on the French contri- bution, at the expense of the Italian. 5- The first English language books pertinent to perfumery were the pharmacopceias as well as the