INQUIRY INTO ORIGIN OF LITERATURE OF PERFUMERY 205 Rimmel's attention, for they were corrected by him in the French translation, "Le Livre des Parrums" (Paris •87o ). Rimreel himself ren- dered the book into French, seeking to avoid any difference of opinion between author and translator. The first American literature was not to make its appearance for several years after the earliest British books, a reflection of the lesser interest America was dis- playing toward perfumery and to- ward cosmetics in general. In I847 , there appeared Campbell Morfit's work, "Perfumery: Its Manufacture and Use," largely based on conti- nental works, particularly on a popular French writer of the period, Mme. Celnart. In •864, a trans- lation was published of a contem- porary French book on perfumery, "A Complete Treatise on Perfum- ery," by P. Pradal. Arnold J. Cooley's "The Toilet in Ancient and Modern Times" (I873) was largely devoted to perfumery it was reprinted on several occasions, with changes on the title page and changes of the binder's title. A few years later (I877) R. S. Cristi- ani, a contributor to the trade papers already in existence, pub- lished "Perfumery and Kindred Arts," also entitled "A Compre- hensive Treatise on Perfumery." That same year there appeared "A Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumes and Kindred Toilet Arti- cles," by John H. Snively, a pro- fessor of chemistry. These several books, no one of which was of last- ing importance, comprised the American contribution to the litera- ture by the end of the nineteenth century, the small American in- dustry also had available transla- tions of several popular German books on the subject. Departing for a moment from the record of books, it would be appro- priate at this time to mention a delightful brochure, published as a catalogue, with copious illustrations and an historical introduction. En- titled, "Perfumery: Its History, Character, and Use," this pamphlet appeared in I853 in Philadelphia, published and evidently written by Apollos W. Harrison, a perfumer of that city doing business at No. IO South Seventh Street. One of the earliest extant American writings in the field, the descriptions in this pamphlet can a century later be considered models of exquisite writ- ing for the catalogue compilers of today. Thus far, we have seen that the literature of perfumery, so far as formula and instruction books were concerned, had its origin and early development in Italy and France, was linked to the books on cos- metics, and was influenced by-- was even a part of--the literature of medicine. This, however, is but one aspect of the writings when we turn to the literature de- voted to the science of essential oils and other perfume materials, we find a genealogy leading in an- other direction. The early writings on essential oils are a part--a very small and inconsiderable partroof the writ-

206 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS ings on distillation, and hence are linked to the literature of alcohol and of the liquor industry. Indeed, one may think, this is a strange alliance to our minds, today, the early association of the writings of perfumery and cosmetics is easier to comprehend than a common source of writings on perfumery and on alcoholic beverages. Early in the sixteenth century, Hieronymus yon Brunschwig pub- lished the first of several treatises on distillation, and although the science of distillation was already many centuries old, this work of Brunschwig is frequently referred to as the earliest printed book on any aspect of chemistry. This work, as Glidemeister points out in the intro- ductory material to "The Volatile Oils," contains references to but three essential oils, and in general ignores the field of perfumes. But the sixteenth century was to see an elaboration and development of the writings on distillation, and later works of the period included con- siderable material on essential oils. An important work in this devel- oping literature was written by Jacques Besson, "L'Ai't et Moyen Parfaict de Tirer Huyles et Eaux de Tous M•dicamens Ol•agineux" (•57•), whose title would indicate that the study of essential oil pro- duction was linked not only to dis- tillation but to medicine and ther- apy. The need for a literature on dis- tillation as applied to perfumery be- came greater with the passage of time. In •753, under the' pseu- donym of D•jean, Antoine Hornot published his "Trait• Raisonn• de la Distillation," in which he gave specific instructions for obtaining oils from flowers, and even offered perfume formulas. He further de- veloped his researches in another work, also dated I753, entitled "Trait• des Odeurs." France also supplied a major con- tribution to the chemical literature in a work, published anonymously but attributed to Abb• Polycarpe Poncelet, entitled "Chimie du Gofit et de l'Odorat." This book was first published in I755, and was re- printed, with additions and changes, for more than half a century. In- terestingly enough, Poncelet linked the two senses which are today brought together i'n so much of our literature and throughout our in- dustry, .the senses which crave satisfaction from savory flavors and from pleasant odors. The equipment utilized for dis- tillation of essential oils, and the specific processes and instructions, were outlined in detail by Jacques Frangois Demachy, in a beautiful large volume, "L'Art du Distil- lateur d'Eaux Fortes, etc."(•773). The works of Poncelet, Demachy, and Hornot did not appear in Eng- lish. However, in the early years of the nineteenth century, distilla- tion was the subject of a study by Augustin Pierre Dubrunfaut, whose work was translated by John Sheri- dan and published under the title, "A Complete Treatise on the Art of Distillation," a notable develop- ment in the continued linking of the