164 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS well. The paper entitled, "Cosmetics--Outcast of Medical Science," was discussed by three distinguished dermatologists, a prominent lawyer and your own member, Maison G. deNavarre. It was delivered in the sacred halls of the Academy of Medicine and was something of a sensation. It is rather amusing to recall that Florence Wall, who addressed the final meeting of the Society's season, and Clarence Darrow, who had addressed the first one, were the only speakers who drew a full house that year. Next came the revision of the Food and Drug Law...and for a while that was a major interest. She very much resented the influence and acceptance that the group of professional crusaders, which she humorously called the "Apostles to the Guinea Pigs," had in the first attempts at revision. She kept close watch over all developments, and appeared at all Senate hearings on the Copeland Bill as an independent witness on behalf of the cosmetic industry. She did this on her own responsibility and at her own expense, and until this bill was passed, she continued to work closely with Senator Copeland. Her particular delight was in baiting the professional reformers, and Senator Copeland often tipped her off when one of them was going to address a meeting somewhere so that she could manage to attend and do some ladylike heckling. In the meantime although she continued writing and lecturing, she was mulling over what to do about advanced education. She wanted to find out where cosmetology belonged in the system of general education. After discouraging experiences at other institutions, she enrolled in the School of Education at New York University and took courses in anything that seemed to be appropriate. After two years plugging along as a student, she was given the opportunity to present the first college accredited course on cosmetics. This was in 1936 in the School of Education itself at New York University. Actually this course was introduced in answer to the demand from a group of teachers of cosmetology in public schools of the city. And so started another phase of her career. That first course, called "Cosmetic Hygiene," was a great success. Instead of the minimum of fifteen students which was required, the first group numbered sixty-nine. I remember that class well because I was in it mysetfi I also remember how entertaining as well as profitable, we all found it. An interesting thing about it, in the light of history, was that it gave us an epitome of Florence Wall's idea that "Beauty is an Ensemble," involving not only makeup and hairstyling but also weight control and good posture. For a good figure as a basis for correct line and color in dress, she studied massage and investigated every reducing salon, health club and exercise place. She worked with everyone from Ned Wayburn to Mensendieck. I went with her for a few weeks to what was innocently called the "limbering and stretching" class at Wayburn's. You should have seen us in our cute blue rompers, cavorting around, tearing ourselves apart!
FLORENCE E. WALL: REBEL INTO PIONEER 165 The first course at New York University was continued, and it always drew a wide variety of students. In my own class alone we had advertis- ing people, chemists and pharmacists, beauty editors, nurses, practicing cosmetologists and teachers in several fields. Three other courses were soon added. Two of these, "Advanced Cos- metology" and "Teaching of Cosmetology," were restricted to people in the field. The third addition on the "Teaching of Personal Grooming," was especially for people in home economics, personal hygiene and other fields, who teach high school and college students. She always maintained friendly relations with the dermatology depart- ment at the College of Medicine, and gave a lecture to the postgraduates each year in exchange for a visit to her advanced class by one of the pro- fessors. A few of the doctors actually ventured over to the School of Education for her course in cosmetology, always incognito and scared for their lives (and reputations) that some of their colleagues would learn where they disappeared to on those evenings. And just a few years ago she gave a full summer course to the postgraduates in dermatology. Florence regretfully terminated her work at New York University in 1943 when she had to move to Easton, Pa., for her war-time work as technical editor for General Aniline and Film Corporation. After two years she returned to New York to become technical editor for the con- sulting laboratories of Ralph L. Evans Associates. Since 1947, however, she has been back at her own consulting work. The crowded G.I. program at New York University made it impossible for her to regain a foothold at the university, but this did not curtail her teaching activities. She has been engaged for educational programs by many schools, colleges and state departments of education throughout the country, principally "teaching teachers to teach" cosmetology. It is easy to see how this came about. She really is an exceptionally good teacher because she has a knack of talking to students on their own educational level. She has been equally successful with physicians, teachers and sales people. And it must take something special to explain difficult and seemingly abstruse points in science and technology to the average mixed group in cosmetology--people with varied backgrounds and abilities--and make them understand it and like it. She has also, as most of you know, continued her writing. Of the five books to her credit, the two best known now are her encyclopedic "Princi- ples and Practice of Beauty Culture" (now in its third edition) and a comprehensive guidance manual called "Opportunities in Beauty Culture." In addition she has contributed chapters or sections on cosmetics to books by several other authors and to two encyclopedias. Many of you undoubt- edly have seen the pieces in the "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology" but you may not know about the set of articles in the "World Book Encyclo-
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