COSMETICS AND COSMETOLOGY IN EDUCATION 171 apprenticeship then required for training in his trade. The success of this school led to the opening in 1896 of an associated school for training in services especially for women patrons. The first rudimentary textbook on beauty culture was issued in the same year and through a need for competent instructors in the new type of training, the Moler Schools established in 1899 the first class for the preparation of teachers (8). Within the first quarter of the 20th century many private schools were opened all over the United States. A recognized leader in the educational movement at this time was Mrs. Ruth J. Maurer (1870-1945), wife of a physician of LaCrosse, Wis. She opened the first Marinello School in Chicago (1905), especially to train operators on treatments for the use of certain creams and other products that she had been successfully market- ing for some time. Being professionally-minded, she encouraged the fraternizing of, and exchange of ideas among, those in all branches of the trade. To this end, she organized a National Convention of Hairdressers (1912) and short summer schools for her own graduates so that they could keep abreast of all latest developments in their work (9). Most of the schools, however, were general training centers for all the various arts and skills in beauty culture, using any and all products available through their dealers. Some offered a comprehensive curricu- lum others gave certificates for special courses in hairdressing, facial treatments or whatever was required. It was not long before the vocational possibilities of beauty culture as a suitable occupation for women were officially recognized. In 1917, Mrs. Anna Lalor Burdick (1869-1944), who had been active in teaching and vocational guidance in her native state of Iowa, was appointed Agent for Industrial Education for Girls and Women, in the United States OfFice of Education. Through her efforts beauty culture was immediately listed as a possible course in the public vocational high schools and in 1918 the first course of the kind was added to the curricula of the Man- hattan Trade School for Girls (now the Mabel Dean Bacon Vocational High School) in New York. Sooner or later, practically all the schools of hairdressing added scalp and facial treatments to their offerings, the "treatment schools" added hairdressing, permanent waving and hair coloring, and thus, even before the adoption of a State Law required it, most schools of beauty culture offered comprehensive curricula. By now (1956), cosmetology is being taught in about 1100 schools throughout the United States and its dependencies. Of these, over 900 are privately owned and nearly 200 are public vocational and industrial high schools which are in about two-thirds of the states (10). The condi- tions and facilities vary widely. In some schools one instructor handles all the work, whereas in some public schools in the large cities cosmetology

172 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS has attained the statu• of a department with a full teaching staff. All schools of any size, public and private, have both general instructors and specialists for certain branches. In addition to the regular schools, instruction centers are maintained by many manufacturers, where teachers and licensed cosmetologists may go for special information and practice in the use of proprietary products and treatments. Some of these companies also send out their expert technicians to give instructions through selected dealers and demonstra- tions to the trade at large. Finally, there are some "Advanced Schools" in which, however, the instruction seems to be limited to the latest methods and modes in hair styling. (We seem to have made a full circle.) SCOPE OF MODEP. N COSMETOLOOY Depending on the observer's point of view, the composite subject of cosmetics-and-cosmetology has been characterized as an art, a science, a profession, a trade, a business, an industry, a racket and a game. Any branch of education and trade that spreads as rapidly as cosmetology did in its early years must inevitably come under consideration for the delimita- tion of its province and some form of legislative control. Forty-six states (all except Delaware and Virginia), the District of Columbia, Alaska, Hawaii and Puerto Rico now have laws to govern cos- metology (10). Since 1919, when the first law was enacted (Wisconsin), much has been done to establish uniformity and reciprocity. Despite the Basic Model Bill, first drafted by the National Hairdressers Association in 1924 and since adopted by many states (11), there are still notable dis- parities in preliminary education, hours in course of training, even in the governing body. This last may be the Department of Education, or Health, or Licenses but it is usually a politically appointed Board of Cosmetology (one of many names) which, itself, varies in the number and qualifications of its members. In the face of such conditions the progress made by the study and practice of cosmetology during the past sixty years has been truly remarkable. In all the laws the regions of the body that may be treated in cosmetology are specifically limited to the scalp, face, neck, upper chest and back, arms and hands. The essential services permitted include: cleansing, cutting, dressing, styling, temporary and permanent curling and straighten- ing, bleaching and coloring of the hair manicuring preventive and correc- tive treatments, by application of cosmetics, massage, devices, or other- wise, of the hair and scalp, face and other regions specified in the law. Cosmetic care of the lower legs and feet is also offered in many salons. It has often been said, and many early textbooks are available as evi- dence, that "The founders of professional cosmetology did not know what to leave out." There was good cause for apprehension on the part of the