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COSMETIC KNOWLEDGE THROUGH INSTRU- MENTAL TECHNIQUES* BY E.G. McDoNOUGH, PH.D.,D. A.M. M^cv.^¾, PH.D. ^HI) M. Bl•v.I)IC•., PH.D. Evans Research and Development Corporation, New York 17, N.Y. TRADITIONALLY, the cosmetic field has been a very difficult one for the chemist and analyst. A study of the development of the cosmetic in- dustry, however, shows the increasingly large part that science has played in it. The science referred to is made up of many parts, such as derma- tology, physics, chemistry, toxicology, etc., but it is probably the science of measurement as much as anything that is lifting the cosmetic industry from the slough of empiricism and setting it firmly on its feet as a field of genuine scientific endeavor. Lord Kelvin said, "If you can measure that of which you speak, and can express it by a number, you know something of your subject but if you cannot measure it, your knowledge is meagre and unsatisfactory." ,Un- fortunately, cosmetics have offered many examples where it has not been possible to "measure that of which you speak." Historically, cosmetic research can be divided roughly into three phases. In the first, the emphasis was on the gross physical properties of importance to cosmetics, such as color, texture and particle size. During this period many vague subjective terms, such as "oiliness, .... creaminess" and "smooth- ness" were in vogue, but apart from rough classifications of physical proper- ties very little actual measurement was involved. The second phase was stimulated by the rapid development of the chemical industry, with a resultant realization of the importance of product control methods and of specifications for the purity of raw materials and of finished products. The recent availability of synthetic materials and their use to replace natural products were also factors in this new awareness of the importance of chemistry to cosmetics. The chemical nature of fats and waxes was realized to be important to product performance and stabil- ity, acid numbers, iodine values and saponification numbers became valu- able measurements when their correlation with such properties was es- tablished. During this period the emergence of hair waving based on scientific * Presented at the December 13, 1956, Meeting, New York City. 126