COSMETICS AND COSMETOLOGY IN EDUCATION 173 physicians in some of those literally incredible compilations of poor English, garbled Greek and Latin, pseudo-science, revolting pictures of diseases of skin, hair and nails, and detailed descriptions of many rare conditions of nails and glands that even experienced dermatologists almost never see. It is now generally accepted as unwritten law by all ethical owners of schools and salons that it is strictly forbidden for any cosmetologist to make diagnosis of, and offer treatment for, any serious condition of the skin and any internal condition whatever. As a further protection in many states, any service that impinges on controlled medical practice, such as body massage, chiropody, electricity for superfluous hair, is re- stricted to those that hold licenses for these branches. A second glance through the list of permitted services and treatments should show that the subject matter of modern cosmetology is a fairly well-defined body of knowledge. As legally constituted, it should be con- sidered, not as "hairdressing-and-cosmetology," but as an all-embracing whole, comprising branches that are both basically artistic (hair-dressing, manicuring, make-up) and basically scientific (hair and skin treatments, permanent waving, hair coloring). In addition to the mechanical skills, therefore, the well-trained cosinerolo- gist should know: (a) Basic art: Color, line, proportion (b) Basic science: Appropriate anatomy, dermatology, physical therapy, sanitation (c) Related subjects: Physiology and hygiene (for personal living), chemistry (simple reactions, tests), psychology (for personal rela- tions). Because the practice of cosmetology is also a business, prospective salon owners also need to know: (d) Business methods: Management, accounting, customer relations insurance, applicable laws. Since World War II, there has been a gradual change in general cosmetol- ogy, at least in many private schools. Under the educational privileges of the G.I. Bill of Rights, hordes of young men enrolled in the approved schools of beauty culture where formerly the students had been almost exclusively women. Excused from manicuring and facial work, the men were permitted to fill their time with extra work on hair but most of them have been interested in little more than hair styling. Many salons in New York and other large centers have dropped all care of the skin--even make-up service--and feature only hairdressing, permanent waving, hair coloring and manicuring, just as did the "masters" of sixty years ago. In other parts of the country, however, general cosmetology has held its

174 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS own the schools still teach, and the salons still promote all kinds of treat- ments that might be requested of them. In contrast to the private schools, which must cater to all passing fads and whims, cosmetology in the public schools has progressed steadily and solidly, especially where this work is under the guidance of some official department of education. The course may be spread over two or three years of their high school curriculum, and is supplemented by English, mathematics, social studies, art, science, physical education and other suitable courses from the regular school program. As a result, these young women are graduated as broadly educated, good general operators. Many of them find positions as laboratory assistants or technicians in industry, where their background serves as a fine starting-point for special training. Someone well known in the industry has expressed the opinion that the teaching of the fundamentals in cosmetology might best be left to the public schools, and that the private schools should be permitted to special- ize in "brush-up" courses, hair styling, and the new products and treat- ments, especially in permanent waving and hair coloring, which the manu- facturers continually rush into the field with almost bewildering rapidity. The private schools would automatically protest any such idea as unfair, because they are in business for profit, and they draw most of their students from men and women well over the age of high school students. Cosmetol- ogy is suggested by guidance counselors as a good vocational outlet for older persons, and those with proved aptitudes and skills can readily establish a position and earn a good living. Unless the public schools everywhere offer their facilities to adults in evening classes, these people can go only to the private schools (12). HIGHER EDUCATION FOP, COSMETOLOGY Two questions about cosmetology that are frequently asked by those in industry, by teachers and others, are: "Where does cosmetology fit into higher education ?" "Where can one go, and what would one have to study, to acquire a good background for cosmetology?" In seeking the answers, this investigator was steered into the Depart- ment of Physical Education and Health at New York University, and the wisdom of the advice was soon manifest. The two branches of study have much in common. Both can trace their origin to Hippocrates, who out- lined dermatology and taught the therapeutic value of fresh air, bathing, sunlight, massage and exercise so well that bodily perfection became a cult during the Golden Age of Greece. Both were partially eclipsed dur- ing the rise of Christianity, but beautification survived in medicine--at least until the 16th century--whereas physical education was practically