ABSTRACTS 247 lines for predicting the type and extent of interac- tion that can occur will be presented together with a description of the effect of structural variation of the two components. The different types of physical forces involved in forming the "complexes" will be outlined, as well as several ways of investigating their formation. The types of property change that can be expected of both components will be dis- cussed these include changes in adsorptive and vis- cosifying characteristics. Lipoproteins, the tradi- tional surfactant/polymer complexes of natural or- igin, will not be included in this reivew, which will be restricted to synthetic polymer/surfactant systems. Stabilization of emulsions by adsorbed macro- molecules Robert Y. Lochhead, Ph.D., BF Goodrich Com- pany, P.O. Box 122, Avon Lake, OH 44012 Stabilization of dispersions and emulsions by ad- sorbed polymers is not new. It has been practiced since the time of the ancient Egyptians and Chi- nese. On the other hand, basic understanding of the fundamental science that underlies this phenomena is relatively new, and this area is currently a focus of much scientific research. This paper will consider the adsorption and confor- mation of macromolecules at solid/liquid and liquid/liquid interfaces the mechanism by which "steric stabilization" operates the benefits of steric stabilization and its limitations how electrosteric stabilization can be used to provide triggered release of actives from a preparation to a substrate and fi- nally, formulation guidelines for the preparation of sterically-stabilized emulsions. SCIENTIFIC SESSION F (Concurrent) COLOR COSMETICS Powder product technology innovation through novel raw materiM selection Alan Farer, Cosmair, Inc., 285 Terminal Avenue, Clark, NJ 07066 In the past, innovation was a word typically used to describe cosmetic treatment items, moisturizers, wrinkle creams, and high-SPF waterproof sun- screens. Today, however, innovation has become essential to the power product development chemist as well. Aesthetically, today's powder products feel dramat- ically different than they did just a few years ago. We have the capability of making anhydrous makeups and blushers feel like powders, and powder makeups and blushers feel like creams. Typical raw materials have become innovative through treatments with silicones, lecithin, amino acids, metallic soap, tri-isostearyl trimerate, and others. Also, novel manufacturing techniques have provided us with the microfine spherical polyeth- ylenes, nylons, silicas, titanium dioxide, speciality iron oxides, and micro=bubbles. Functionally, through proper utilization of these novel raw materials, today's powder development chemist is creating products that not only look good in the display case but have wonderful appli- cation and feel properties while markedly im- proving the user's physical appearance. Through discussion of the varied raw materials, you will come to understand the innovative capabilities of today's powder development chemist. The technology of cosmetic pencils John Cunningham, COSMOLAB Inc., 1100 Gar- rett Road, Lewisburg, TN 37091 Extruded pencils present their own particular set of formulation challenges. Current technology dictates that extruded bases re- quire a high solid/oil ratio to form stable sticks, a requirement that runs counter to the consumer de- sire for the product to have the smooth color lay- down of conventional molded leads. Unfortunately, many of the raw materials that best achieve these attributes tend to form polymorphic crystalline structures. In practice, this can lead to long-term product instability that in turn manifests itself in such ways as lead-hardening and surface- blooming. The importance, therefore, of raw mate- rial selection cannot be overemphasized when em- barking upon such a development project, and the more conventional quality control test methods are best supplemented by additional and more sophisti- cated rheological studies. Visually different cosmetics Ernest Curtis, Kolmar Labs, Inc., King Street, Port Jervis, NY 12771 Color has always been one of the most important marketing tools for cosmetic products. During the past few years visually different products have at- tracted must consumer interest. At first this was done with multicolored items such as two or more shades in a single package. Colors have now been expanded to include multicolor and multishaped products and are being used as a "signal" for actives in core, spiral, or bead forms. Finally, colors can be used to signal the consumer to two distinct products in one or to change color when products are used to show that these products are working.

248 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The advantages and limitations in manufacturing and formulation of these visually different colored products will be discussed. In vivo testing of nail polish and the general ef- fects of shade families on their performance Greg Wanamaker, Chesebrough Ponds, Inc., 40 Merritt Blvd, Trumbull, CT 06611 The wear characteristics of nail polish formulas are a major concern, to nail polish manufacturers and marketers. Analytical test methods, which include the use of viscometers, glossometers, and pendulum hardness testers, are necessary tools for quality con- trol but are not totally indicative of acceptable per- formance to the consumer. In vivo testing, on the other hand, is the final step in evaluating wear characteristics of polish formulations and is increas- ingly important in supporting advertising and mar- keting claims. The use of descriptive analysis panels with com- puter-processed rating forms compensates for pan- elist biovariability and improves report time. The numerical results of this testing can easily be plotted to show how individual shades will perform within their product line and against competitors. Generalities about the overall characteristics can be inferred when analyzing pigment types and quan- tities in one-coat and two-coat systems. From laboratory to manufacturing--The po- tential benefits of monitoring the quality of lip- stick pigment dispersions Thomas W. Kahle, Noxell Corporation, 11050 York Road, Hunt Valley, MD 21030 Product development chemists are periodically faced with the task of shading and approving first- production batches of their newly developed for- mulae. On a day-to-day basis, Q.C. faces similar challenges with ongoing production. This discussion begins with a brief description of a typical lipstick production shading problem, its likely cause, and often overlooked solution. The conclusion provides the potential benefits of cost reductions, higher efficiency, and more uni- form master to batch-to-batch integrity. SCIENTIFIC SESSION G (Concurrent) GENERAL PAPERS Alkoxylated methyl glucoside quaternary: Con- ditioning agent for hair and skin Straut B. Polovsky, Ph.D., and Joseph P. Pav- lichko, Amerchol, P.O. Box 351, Edison, NJ 08817 Quaternaries affect important properties associated with hair conditioning such as improved wet and dry combing, feel, luster, and antistatic activity. A new class of quaternary ammonium compounds will be introduced based on alkoxylated methyl gluco- side chemistry. Alkoxylated methyl glucoside qua- ternary (AMGQ) is the newest addition to the highly functional family of methyl glucoside deriva- tives that are noted for their extreme mildness to skin and hair. AMGQ is prepared by functionalizing hydroxyl groups via the addition of a lipophilic quaternary center, thus forming a cationic molecule that is substantive to hair and skin. In addition, the re- sulting quaternary maintains the extreme mildness of the glucoside family, i.e., low irritation potential on skin and in eyes. It has a significant effect on physical properties such as surface tension. The hy- drophilic moiety of AMGQ renders it a powerful humectant. This material is versatile in its use and is compat- ible with many modern formulation ideas such as skin-conditioning creams and lotions, aerosol con- ditioning hair sprays, and styling mousses. It is useful in liquid soaps and conditioning sprays with sunscreens. This work will be presented together with data demonstrating its activity. Quantitative evaluation of hair set parameters Franz Frosch and Friedrich G. M. Vogel, BASF AG, 6700 Ludwigshafen, West Germany Set and hold of polymer-treated hair can be de- scribed by several parameters: elasticity, stiffness, humidity resistance, torsion resistance, etc. Only a few models such as the "curl retention" method, have found general acceptance and are used as screening tools to evaluate the performance of set- ting products on hair before a salon test is made. A new method is introduced which stimulates the effects of various setting products by stressing polymer-treated swatches with work loads. Varying the load or the frequency of stress, different infor- mation about the polymer/hair fiber interaction is obtained. In addition, further parameters, such as relative humidity, may be varied. The model can be utilized with simple laboratory equipment or can be extended to study the mechan- ical properties of polymer-treated fibers in detail. The method allows the comparison of polymers alone as well as of complete formulations of setting products and correlates well with salon parameters. This method presents a valuable tool to screen dif- ferent raw materials and formulations and can aid in the preselection of hair care polymers. Details and results of the novel method are discussed.