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Cosmet. Sci., 54, 317-319 (May/June 2003) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Volume 36, No. 1, 2002 Enhancement of Percutaneous Absorption and Its Application to Skincare Products Motoi Hayase Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo, Ltd. Enhancement of percutaneous absorption is one of the most important goals in the development of more effective skin care products. But, qualitative standards for cosmetics are often widely different from standards for medicines from the standpoints of safety, stability, and taste. As a result, current systems of experiments on percutaneous absorption and how percutaneous absorption can be enhanced which have been developed as techniques for medicines, are not adequate to develop skin care products. In this paper each method of detecting percutaneous absorption of ingredients and percutaneous absorption enhancement for the development of skin care products is described from the standpoint of the principle involved and its application. Analysis of Eye Movement in Skin Assessment Noriko Kobayashi, Toshihiro Usui, Seiichi Arai, Tadahiko Fukuda Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo Ltd. Faculty of Environmental Information, Keio University When you evaluate the appearance of the skin, which part of the face do you pay attention to? The purpose of the present study is to identify the most important part of the face in skin care routines as well as in the use of cosmetics to enhance skin's beauty. A sensory evaluation of 14 attributes of a model's skin as 'rough texture,' 'luster,' and 'smoothness,' in addition to 'skin beauty' as an overall assessment of the skin, was conducted. At the same time, the eye movements of the evaluators was recorded with an eye movement measuring system. The main findings were as follows. For many attributes the evaluators fixated mainly on the cheek region. The nose was also often fixated on, e.g., in the evaluation of prominent pores the fixation concentrated on the nose on and wings of the nose. These parts fixated on corresponded well with the parts where the evaluators reported that they looked. When subjects were asked to assess luster, fixations tended to be concentrated on the tip of the nose and the cheeks. The part fixated on differed depending on the attributes evaluated. In the evaluation of skin beauty, the fixations were distributed over a wider region, including the upper cheek, the area around the nose, the area around the mouth, and the lower cheek. In conclusion, eye movement during sensory evaluation was elucidated objectively. These findings are not only important for developing skin care and make-up techniques, but also for determining appropriate measurement areas in skin bioengineering techniques. Partial Difference in Facial Sebum Kiyomi Takahashi, Yoshie Muramatsu R&D Department of Beauty Information, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. Parts of the face where more sebum in secreted are conventionally called Zone T. However, these sites are not always areas where makeup is apt to come off. To verify this idea, we conducted a survey on the feelings of the beauty staff, took sebum measurements from several locations on the face, and observed sebum secretion. The results confirmed that sebum secretion in the individual could be ranked by dividing the face into 19 parts. As a next step, we evaluated the effects of a milky lotion on makeup and its staying power on these parts. Findings indicated that the application of foundation was affected by the sebum secretion of each individual part thus, makeup fading differed according to location and amount of sebum secretion. Based on these results, we suggest that the nose, the brow, the inward upper cheeks, and the jaws be called Zone I because more sebum is secreted in these places. We also propose that moisture products for base makeup be suitably selected and properly used according to the nature of skin of each person. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 317