J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 57-58 Qanuary/February 2005) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 38, No. 3, 2004* Polyelectrolyte · Micelle Coaceivation - Effect of that both the structure and the degree of substitution of Coacervate on the Properties of Shampoo- Yoshiko Hiwatari , Katsunori Yoshida , Takahiro Akutsu , Momo Yabu , Shigeru Iwai cationic polymer drastically changed the condition of coaceivation. Moreover, the cationic polymers showed remarkable effect on the rheological properties and the adhesive behavior of the coaceivate on the damaged hair. These results implied that we could control the usage Material Science Research Center, Basic Research texture of shampoo by choosing proper cationic polymers Division , Haircare Product Development Center, Product to control coacervation. Development Division , SHISEIDO Research Center (Shin · Yokohama ) 2 - 2 - 1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki · ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan A typical formula for shampoo containing cationic polymers and anionic/ amphoteric surfactants exhibits liquid-liquid phase separation under certain conditions when the shampoo is diluted with water upon the actual use in bathroom The lower dense phase is considered to be an insoluble complex formed with the cationic polymer and mixed surfactants. Generally, this associative liquid-liquid phase separation is called "coacervation" and the phase of complex is called "coaceivate." Although it is well known that the usage texture of shampoo is influenced by coaceivate, there are only a few reports about their relationship. In this work, we studied the properties of coaceivate and its effect on the usage texture of shampoo, particularly focusing on the effect of the cationic polymer structure. We prepared five different model shampoos that contain various cationic polymers, and studied the effect of the characteristics of the polymers on the condition of the complex formations, the amount of coacervate, the rheological properties and the adhesive behavior of coaceivate on the surface of damaged hair. It was found Non· Invasive Methods for Assessment of Dermal UV Damage Ai Oba, Takamasa Gorni, Yasutomo Nishimori, Chris Graves, Anthony Pearse, Chris Edwards Beauty Science R&D Department, Cutaneous Drug Research Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., University of Wales College of Medicine, Royal Gwent Hospital, Cardiff Biometrics, Ltd., 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa · ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan 560, Kashio · cho, Totsuka · ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan, Heath Park, Cardiff CF14 4XN, UK Cardiff Road, Newport, Gwent, Wales NP20 2UB, UK, 92 Tewkesbury Street, Cathays, Cardiff CF24 4QT, UK Repeated exposure to UV radiation can induce cutaneous damage leading to permanent structural degeneration of the dermal extracellular matrix and formation of visible wrinkles. It is not so easy to efface severely UV· damaged skin, because the degenerated abnormal structure of that * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 57

58 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE skin is usually fixed by tight cross - linkings. So, we think hemoglobin oxygen saturation were observed at the site of that one of the important approaches to the anti - wrinkle dark eye circles. We also observed that the blood flow rate skin care is the treatment ofphotodamaged skin in the early was slow at dark eye circles in comparison with cheek. stage. However, it is difficult for most cosmetic users to From these results, blood flow stagnation seems to be one perceive their dermal UV damage. In the present study, we of the factors that could induce dark eye circles. In addition, investigated the possibilities of two non - invasive the increase of melanin at dark eye circles was also measurements of skin mechanical properties as convenient observed in older subjects. It was considered that not only biomarkers of degeneration of the extracellul.-i- matrix. The congestion but also an increase of melanin content in the condition of the three - dimensional structures of dermal skin could induce dark eye circles. On the basis of these collagen fibers, which depends on the degree of UV results, we developed anti - dark eye circle cosmetics that damage, correlated with a mechanical parameter measured can improve blood circulation, reduce melanin content and by the Resiliometer we developed. Accumulation of maintain high moisture retention in the skin. After three denatured elastic fibers (elastosis) induced by photoaging weeks' usage of this product, it was confirmed that dark eye correlated with certain mechanical parameters measured by circles were improved, judging from the result of non - the Cutometer. These findings suggest that dermal invasive instrumental measurements. structural changes associated with photoaging can be assessed non - invasively using these devices. Dermatological Study on Dark Eye Circles and Their Treatment with Newly Developed Cosmetics Yuji Masuda, Motoji Takahashi, Atsuko Satou, Motohiro Yanai, Toyonobu Yamashita, Tomio Iikura, Nobuhiko Ochiai, Katsuki Ogawa, Kazuhiko Sayama SHISEIDO Research Center, 2-2-1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki - ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan Blood flow stagnation is said to be an important factor for the incidence of dark eye circles, but there are few reports which have studied dark eye circles and the relationship to blood flow. We have examined dark eye circles dermatologically using a non - invasive method and made clear the factor related to it. We have also studied the effect of newly developed cosmetics on improvement of dark eye circles. Melanin and hemoglobin content, hemoglobin oxygen saturation and blood flow rate were measured to compare dark eye circles with a normal control. An Repair of Dry Skin by Minerals in Seawater: OLIGOMARINE® as a Skin Moisturizer Masahiko Ooe, Hidenobu Okumura, Tatsuo Yamamura, Hiroshi Matsunaka, Tsuneo Morioka Kobe Research Laboratories, Noevir Co. Ltd., Science Division, Nov Co. Ltd., 6-13-1, Minatojima Naka - machi, Chuo - ku, Kobe 650-8521, Japan OLIGOMARINE® is a complex of minerals obtained from seawater. In a cell culture system, OLIGOMARINE® stimulated not only the cell activation but also the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts. In addition, OLIGOMARINE® might have accelerated the keratinization since the expression of suprabasal markers, such as involucrin and transglutaminase, were promoted in cultured normal human keratinocytes. Furthermore, the water - holding properties and permeability barrier function of the stratum comeum were enhanced by using lotion containing OLIGOMARINE®. These results suggested that OLIGOMARINE® would be useful as a humectant for the increased amount of hemoglobin and decreased prevention or improvement of dry skin.