J. Cosmet. Sci.J 56, 59-61 CTanuary/February 2005) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 5, 2004* Use of the Synthetic Superoxide Dismutase/Catalase levels on non-irradiated skin were reduced in a dose­ Mimetic Euk-134 to Compensate for Seasonal Antioxidant dependent fashion. In contrast to alpha-tocopherol, EUK­ Deficiency by Reducing Pre-Existing Lipid Peroxides at the 134 even reduced the level of lipid peroxides at the surface Human Skin Surface of UV A-exposed skin when it was applied after irradiation. L. Declercq 1 , I. Sente 1 , L. Hellemans 1 , H Corstjens 1 , D. Maes2 1 Biological Research Department Europe, Estee Lauder BCC, Oevel, Belgium 2 Biological Research Department Estee Lauder Companies, Melville, NY, USA We confirmed that this salen-manganese complex was able to reduce squalene hydroperoxide levels in vitro, suggesting peroxidase-like activity towards organic peroxides. These data support the concept that the synthetic SOD/catalase mimetic EUK-134 might be able to compensate for seasonal deficiencies in antioxidant defense capacity at the skin surface, thereby contributing to an optimal protection of the skin against the accumulation of The generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in UV- oxidative damage. exposed skin is believed to contribute to the photoaging process. The stratum corneum (SC) contains a variety of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to protect against various environmental sources of free radicals. We have previously shown a seasonal variation in SC catalase activity with strong deactivation in sun-exposed skin in the summer, while SC superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity remained intact in those conditions. This potentially leads to the local overproduction of H202• The oxidized lipid squalene hydroperoxide accumulates at the surface of sun­ exposed skin in the summer and upon exposure to UV A doses as low as 0.1 J/cm2 and adequate protection against excessive lipid peroxidation at times of UV exposure should be aimed for. We have been using the induction of lipid hydroperoxides at the skin surface by a single dose of UV A ( 1 J/cm2) as a model system to evaluate the protective effect of antioxidants in vivo. Topical treatment with the synthetic SOD/catalase mimetic EUK-134 1 hour before UV A exposure reduced the level of lipid peroxides at the surface of UV A-exposed skin but also baseline peroxide Influence of Cleansing on Stratum Corneum Tryptic Enzyme (SCTE) in Human Skin AG. Schepky, U. Holtzmann, R. Siegner, S. Zirpins, R. Schmucker, H. Wenck, K.P. Wittern, and S.S. Biel R&D BeiersdorfAG, Unnastrasse 48, D-20245 Hamburg Desquamation in human skin is a well-balanced process of de novo production of corneocytes and their shedding from the skin surface. The proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is an important step in the final desquamation process. In the degradation of these adhesion molecules, the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) plays a key role. In initial studies with extracts of porcine epidermis, SCTE was shown to be inactivated by low concentrations of sodium lauryl ether sulphate. These in vitro findings were supported by in situ results obtained by measuring the * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 59

60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE release of fluorescent dyes coupled to trypsin-specific patients applying cleansing gel, facial tonic and creme gel. substrates incubated on human skin cross-sections. For the first time we were able to show a significant Moreover, in further studies, it could be demonstrated that the SCTE activity in the human horny layer decreases after in vivo application of cleansing products containing sodium lauryl ether sulphate. After repeated washing of human volunteers with tap water, standard market cleansing product (sodium lauryl ether sulphate/ betaine system) or a new improved cleansing product (sodium lauryl ether sulphate/ betaine/ disodium cocoyl glutamate system), the specific SCTE activity was determined in extracts from uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. It could be shown that after application of the new formula the remaining SCTE activity was significantly higher than after use of the standard market formula. This ex vivo approach has proven to be very helpful for measuring surfactant effects on human skin enzymes. {Jsing this assay, we developed an improved shower gel formula, which leads to a significantly higher skin enzyme activity after application, compared to a standard market formula. In Vivo Assessment of the Efficacy of an Innovative Face Care System in Subjects with Mild Acne Vulgaris U. Scherdin 1 , S. Presto 1 , F. Rippke 1 , J. Nielsen 1 , M. Strassner1, A lmadojemun1, E. Gartner1, A Herpens1, H. C. Korting 2 , S. Bielfeldt3 1 Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany 2 Ludwig Maximilians University, Frauenlobstr. 9-11, 80337 Munich, Germany 1 BioSkin GmbH, Hamburg, Germany present address: proDERM, lndustriestr. 1, 22869 Schenefeld, Germany improvement concerning the quality of life after using a new face care line. Especially adults with mild forms of acne may benefit from this effective skin care regimen. Topical Niacinamide Reduces Yellowing, Wrinkling, Red Blotchiness, and Hyperpigmented Spots in Aging Facial Skin Donald L. Bissett, Kukizo Miyamoto, Peiwen Sun, Jim Li, and Cynthia A Berge Previous clinical testing of topical niacinamide (vitamin B3) has revealed a broad array of improvements in the appearance of aging facial skin. The study reported here was done to confirm some of those previous observations and to evaluate additional end points such as skin anti­ yellowing. Caucasian female subjects (n = 50, ages 40-60) participated in a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product vs. the same moisturizer product containing 5% niacinamide. Niacinamide was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvements vs. control in end points evaluated previously: fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, and red blotchiness. In addition, skin yellowing (sallowness) vs. control was significantly improved. The mechanism by which this array of benefits is achieved with niacinamide is discussed. A Multi-Sample Design for Assessing the Comedolytic The purpose of our studies was to verify efficacy and skin Activity of Topical Products compatibility of a medical face care system containing 2% lactic acid (LA) as active ingredient in a specially designed H. Knaggsa, H. Santanastasioa, J. Bowman\ A Pa gn onib vehicle (Follicle Targeting System) in adult subjects with mild acne vulgaris. The 1 rt study ( 46 patients) demonstrated a Skin Research Department, Unilever Research, Edgewater superiority of 2 % LA in comparison to 2 % salicylic acid bHill Top Research, Milltown, NJ. with respect to number of comedones and inflammatory lesions. The second study evaluated 90 patients receiving Background: Facial comedolytic studies allow testing of a distinct combinations of face care products (Eucerinll maximum of 2 products. The upper back provides a larger Impure Skin), i. e. cleansing gel, facial tonic (2 % LA) and area with a more uniform distribution of microcomedones cream-gel (2 % LA). All treatments were performed twice for comedolytic studies. Objective: To design a multi- daily over a 12 weeks period. Lesion counts, cyanoacrylate biopsies and determination of quality of life by questionnaires were performed at different timepoints. A reduction of comedones by 56 % corresponding to a 46% increase of quality of life index was demonstrated in sample method for assessing comedolytic activity of topical products on the back. The effect of season on product discrimination was also explored. Methods: Three cleansing formulations, a negative water control and 0.025% Retin-All cream (positive control) were tested.