ABSTRACTS 61 Seven subjects were recruited in summer, nine in fall. Products were applied for 8 weeks, comedolysis was assessed by visually evaluating cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies taken at baseline and post-treatment. Results: In all data sets (summer, fall and combined), sites treated with Retin-A 111 had a significantly lower number of microcomedones as compared to the negative water control. In addition, cleansers B and D showed a significant reduction from baseline in the fall and combined (summer and fall) data, but not in summer data alone indicating different responses to treatment during the year. Conclusions: The design was sensitive enough to detect differences between cleansing formulations under normal washing conditions. Reduced sensitivity observed during summer suggests hot humid conditions may decrease the comedolytic performance of topical products.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 63-64 CTanuary/February 2005) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 7, No. 4, 2004* A Novel Nanoemulsification Method of Stirring at the 0 - Point with the Tocopherol-Based Block Co-Polymer Nonionic Emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 Young-Dae Kim, Jung-Soo Kim, lwhan Cho and Ki Woo Kim VII ACOS Corporation, 1123-3 Kuro 3-dong, Kuro-gu, Seoul 152-880 Korea Department of Chemistry, Korea Advanced Institute of Science & Technology 373-1, Kusung dong, Yusung-gu, Taejon 305-701 Korea National Instrumentation Center for Environmental Management, Seoul National University, San 56-1, Sillim 9-dong, Gwanak-gu, Seoul 151-742, Korea Nanoemulsions have recently become increasingly important as potential vehicles for the controlled delivery of cosmetics and for the optimized dispersion of active ingredients in particular skin layers [l]. The preparation of conventional nanoemulsions requires mainly high-pressure homogenization [2], which is unproductive and requires high energy due to its lower efficiency, limiting their practical applications. In order to solve these problems novel nanoemulsions were studied using a model system of pseudo-ternary water/emulsifier/paraffin oil. Nanoemulsions were prepared by stirring a mixture of the tocopherol-containing block co polymer emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, paraffin oil, and distilled water at the 0-point using weight fractions of the dispersed phase (l) of0.31 to 0.82 and an emulsifier content of 1.0 to 9 wt% [3]. The emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in nanoemulsions was compared with that of the conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate(3/l), and phospholipids. Also the emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in the more hydrophilic oils caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol was compared with that in paraffin oil. The stability and morphology of the resulting nano-emulsions were studied by visual inspection, optical microscopy, particle size analysis, and cryo-scanning electron microscopy. In the nanoemulsion systems containing caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol, respectively, as an oil phase PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 showed emulsification properties similar to those in paraffin oil. The conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate (3/1), and phospholipids did not give nanoemulsions with high-speed stirring. The block co polymer nonionic emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to produce stable namoemulsions of mean droplet diameters ranging from 204 to 499 nm. The emulsification method of high-speed stirring at the 0-point using PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to be very effective for the preparation of stable nanoemulsions useful for applications in skincare cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and drugs. A New Makeup Remover Prepared with a System Comprising Dual Continuous Channels (Bicontinuous Phase) of Silicone Oil and Water Kei Watanabe, Masahiko Masuda, Kazuyoshi Nakamura, Tomoyuki Inaba, Akira Noda, Takeshi Yanagida, and Toshia Y anaki Shiseido Co., Research Center, Hayabuchi 2-2-1, Tsuzuki ku, Yokohama, 224-85 5 8 Japan F acuity of Education & Human Science, Niigata University, Igarashi, Nino-cho 8050, Niigata, 950-2181 Japan Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline cleansers. Furthermore, oil based makeup removers do not leave the skin feeling fresh but oily, and often have been used in combination with surfactant-type cleansers. In other words, complete makeup removal and a fresh skin feel are considered to be incompatible in conventional fonnulation technologies. To obtain compatible systems, we investigated the applicability of a system known as the bicontinuous phase and eventually succeeded in developing a novel system for a makeup remover. This phase can be prepared with a specific composition with a complete hydrophilic-lipophilic balance in an oil/surfactant/water system by using cyclo-siloxane, which dissolves silicone resin well. The bicontinuous phase has an * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 63
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