78 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE that is being accelerated by crowded intellectual property portfolios and constraining regulations. Fonnulators of complex mixtures have long known that the characteristics of their final formulation and the position of" eq uilibrium" often depends critically u po n the order of addition of ingredients and the precise processing conditions under which the formulation was made. The large variety of possible outcomes derive from the many eigenstates that are available to each composition of a complex mixture due to the fact that the bonds between the component molecules are weak ph ys ical bonds and therefore a po tential multitude of nanostructures can be formed. Conventional formulation is severely limited by the number of compositions that can be investigated in a reasonable time. Paper presented as a keynote lecture at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, Osaka, Japan Design and Development of an Innovative Hybrid Powder Based on a Computer Simulation and Its Application to Foundation Makeup Products Katsuki Ogawa, Katsuhiko Yagi, Hideo Hata, Y oshimasa Miura, Koichi Nakamura, Sadaki Takata, and Kazumi Fujima• Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku Yokohama-shi, Japan, 224-8558 •Department of Electrical and Electronic Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Yamanashi University, 4-3-11 Takeda, Kofu-shi, Japan, 400-8511 An innovative hybrid powder prepared using computer simulation allowed development of a new foundation having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/desi gn of the po wder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conducted on the optical characteristics of a baby's delicate skin, which is the envy of many women. To obtain the optimal optical characteristics, the finite differential time domain (FDTD) method for solving Maxwell's differential eq uation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For synthesis of the hybrid po wder based on the optical model, a proprietary shape regulation coating technology was used in which flaky substrates were coated with microspherical forms of barium sulfate crystals. The hybrid powder developed exhibited optical characteristics that showed a significant diffusion characteristic in the visible light region. The foundation containing this po wder could conceal pores, sma11 wrinkles, freckles, and age spots and owing to its microscopic reflection characteristics provided a fine, smooth texture that has never before been available with a conventional foundation. Part of this study was presented at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, Osaka, Japan StabilizJltion and Release Profile of Retinol and Tocopherol with Microcapsules Based on Chitosan Josep-Lluis Viladot, Yolanda Gomez, Juan-Antonio Asensio, Antonio Hernandez, Maria de Moragas, Silvia Martinez, Salvatore Gargano Cognis Iberia, S.A.U., Poligon Industrial Sant Vicen� s/n, E- 08755 Castellbisbal (Barcelona), Spain The incorporation of unstable cosmetic actives such as retinol into fonnulations requires methods of stabilization to ensure their long-term activity and efficacy. A delivery system entrapping lipophitic vitamins such as retinol and tocopherol based on chitosan coacervation with negative po lymers is described in this paper. The microcapsules appear to be spherical with a narrow particle size distribution, not aggregated, and with a homogeneous surface. Microencapsulation with such a s ys tem prolongs the active's life in skin care 0/W formulations by at least one order of magnitude in the tested formulas. Furthermore, the biodegradation profile of this delivery system is consistent with a sustained release profile in human epidermis. A preliminary version of this work was presented in the XXXV Jornadas del Comite Espanol de la Detergencia, Barcelona (Spain), 2005 [1]

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 79-80 Qanuary/February 2008) Abstracts Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science, "Wiadomosci PTK" Vol. 10, No 3, 2007* Materials Of Plant Origin In Cellulite Treatment Application and Perspectives Anna Oborska Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Products Producers, Warsaw, Poland Cellulite is a term used to describe changes that can be seen very often in post pubertal women. It appears in the area of tights and buttocks, manifests by irregular skin contours and reflects a variety of conditions introduced in the scientific literature as adiposis edematosa or gynoid tipodystrophy. According to the scientific literature the range of symptoms characterising cellulite includes disturbed fat metabolism, fluid accumulation, microcirculatory breakdown as well as alteration in the structure of dennal collagen and elastic fibres. All factors mentioned above results in the condition which is popularly known as "orange -peel skin". So, what the cellulite really is - is it only an aesthetic problem? What happens in the tissue giving such an effect? Originally presented at the CHI Personal Care & Homecare Ingredients Exhibition & Conference 2006, Warsaw - Poland, October 25-26, 2006 Cosmetics and the 5 Senses: Perception and Description Agnes Giboreau Adriant, France Our senses are stimulated along all consumer behaviour stages, from purchase to usage. Sensory analysis is one of the most powerful tools to help companies to drive product development based on accurate studies of sensations. Expert (trained) panels are used to precisely measure the levels of sensory properties, for instance for the comparison of new variants versus a reference or for the evaluation of a new supplier or for an innovative process. They also give a detailed picture of the competitors present on the market and may be used to identify new products opportunities as defined through their sensory characteristics (preference mapping). Originally published in the S6FW-Joumal 133(5) 2007 Skin Deep: Tradition and Innovation in Skin Cleansing Luigi Rigano ISPE S.r.l. Wiping off the undesired materials which coat our skin surface is not a simple task. Odour elimination, detachment of skin cells debris, dissolution of oxidised sebum lipids, reduction of the bacterial flora and elimination of pollution materials and make-up traces are quite easily obtained, but this is not the only required group of actions, at least in modem times, when the respect of the skin, now considered a protected environment, is taken into consideration. Absence of immediate and delayed irritation, respect of the resident flora and of barrier lipids, easy and thorough rinsing, maintenance of skin pH, restoring the normal TEWL values, activating skin wellness and appearance are key requisites. Providing pleasant sensory characteristics, not only immediately during cleansing, but also in the long term, are now essential requirements in daily hygiene practice. All these needs are quite rapidly changing the adopted ingredients and shaping the physical forms of modern cleansing products. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 79