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211 J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 211–223 (May/June 2010) Anti-wrinkle activity of Platycarya strobilacea extract and its application as a cosmeceutical ingredient YOUNG HEUI KIM, KI HO KIM, CHANG SUNG HAN, HONG CHUL YANG, SUN HEE PARK, HYE-IN JANG, JIN-WAN KIM, YUN-SUN CHOI, and NAM HO LEE, R&D Center, Bioland Ltd., Songjeong, Byongchon, Cheonan, Chungnam 330-863 (Y.H.K., K.H.K., C.S.H., H.C.Y., S.H.P.), Instiute of Life Science, Univera, Inc, Econet Center 302-4, Sungsu-dong 2, Sungdong, Seoul 133-120 (H.-I. J., J.-W.K., Y.-S.C.), and Department of Chemistry, College of Natural Science, Cheju National University, Ara 1-Dong, Jeju 690-756 (N.H.L.), Republic of Korea. Accepted for publication February 23, 2010. Presented at the 2008 IFSCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain, October 6–9, 2008. Synopsis In order to investigate the potential of Platycarya strobilacea fruit extract as an active ingredient for cos- metics, we measured their free-radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibitory activity, the expression of MMP-1 (matrix metalloproteinase-1), and type I collagen synthesis in normal human fi broblast cells. To isolate the main component compounds from P. strobilacea fruit extract, we purifi ed the extract through solvent fractionation, column chromatography, and recrystallization. The component compounds were identifi ed as ellagic acid and 4-O-xyloside of ellagic acid (ellagic acid 4-O-xylopyranoside). P. strobilacea fruit extract and ellagic acid increased the expression of type I collagen mRNA in a dose-dependent man- ner (up to 37% and 41% at 20 μg/ml and 1.0 μg/ml, respectively), comparable to that of ascorbic acid (up to 39% at 500 μM). A clinical study of measurements using visual evaluation and image analysis showed a statistically signifi cant difference (p 0.05) between the effects of the test and placebo prod- ucts. This result suggests that P. strobilacea fruit extract could be used as an active ingredient for anti- aging cosmetics. INTRODUCTION Skin aging is characterized by a progressive deterioration of the skin's functional proper- ties, linked to alterations of dermal connective tissue due to the changes at the cell, gene, and protein levels. Skin aging can be divided into two basic processes: intrinsic aging and photoaging. Intrinsic skin aging describes the irreversible physiological process that starts in age groups from around 17 to 25 years, as soon as physical maturation is accom- plished. Photoaging is the term given to the superposition of chronic sun damage on the intrinsic aging process (1–3).